Ilha de Santiago | Cabo Verde
É obrigatório, numa estadia na cidade da Praia, tirar pelo menos um dia para conhecer a ilha de Santiago para além da sua capital. Eu saí da cidade por duas vezes. Fiz um tour de dia completo ao norte da ilha, passando pela Assomada, pela comunidade dos Rabelados, até ao Tarrafal e visitei numa outra manhã a Cidade velha, a poucos quilómetros da Praia. Não percam a oportunidade de conhecer a ilha, é uma óptima surpresa.
Atravessar o interior da ilha de Santiago foi uma das maiores surpresas da viagem. É verdade que estamos no arquipélago de Cabo Verde, e portante o nome tem origem em algum lado, mas a verdade é que a imagem que eu tinha em mente era a de uma ilha árida e tudo menos verde.
Não podia estar mais enganada, apesar do litoral, a zona das praias e da cidade da Praia corresponderem a essa idea pré-concebida, conforme nos fomos embrenhando no interior da ilha a imagem da paisagem mudou radicalmente e começamos a cruzar-nos com vales e montanhas verdes, cobertas de vegetação e com inúmeras plantações.
Se pegarem num carro e começarem a fazer a principal estrada que cruza a ilha, entre a cidade da Praia e o Tarrafal, vão rapidamente dar de caras com estas paisagens e passar por muitos miradouros e oportunidades de fotografia incrível.
Recomendo só pela paisagem. Mas a verdade é que é a estrada que vos vai levar até a todos os outros locais de interesse na ilha, portanto anotem o que não devem deixar de visitar:
- Assomada
Foi a primeira paragem do dia. Para conhecer o seu famoso mercado – localmente conhecido como Pelourinho de Assomada -. Apesar de afastado do principal centro urbano da ilha (a capital) é considerado o maior e mais concorrido mercado da ilha, pelo que não dava para perder a oportunidade de o conhecer.
É principalmente um mercado de produtos agrícolas frescos, mas é possível encontrar de tudo um pouco, não só dentro do edifício do mercado (a zona mais tradicional) mas também nas ruas adjadentes, onde não faltam autorádios, roupas de padrão tradicional, bebidas (pouco) frescas ou qualquer outro artigo vindo da china.
- Tarrafal
Há dois motivos para se deslocarem até à outra ponta da ilha de Santiago e visitarem a cidade do Tarrafal. O primeiro é porque terão a oportunidade de visitar a antiga Prisão Política da época do Estado Novo em Portugal. O segundo é porque vão encontrar a melhor praia de areia branca da ilha.
Aproveitem os dois e ainda podem deambular pelo centro da cidade e almoçar um peixinho fresco – difícil pensar num plano melhor.
“A Colónia Penal do Tarrafal, situada no lugar de Chão Bom do concelho do Tarrafal, na ilha de Santiago (Cabo Verde), foi criada pelo Governo português do Estado Novo ao abrigo do Decreto-Lei n.º 26 539, de 23 de Abril de 1936. Em 18 de Outubro de 1936 partiram de Lisboa os primeiros 152 detidos, entre os quais se contavam participantes do 18 de Janeiro de 1934 na Marinha Grande (37) e alguns dos marinheiros que tinham participado na Revolta dos Marinheiros ocorrida a bordo de navios de guerra no Tejo em 8 de Setembro daquele ano de 1936.
O Campo do Tarrafal, ou Campo de Concentração do Tarrafal, como ficou conhecido, começou a funcionar em 29 de Outubro de 1936, com a chegada dos primeiros prisioneiros.
O Estado Novo, sob a capa da reorganização dos estabelecimentos prisionais, ao criar este campo pretende atingir dois objectivos ligados entre si: afastar da metrópole presos problemáticos e, através das deliberadas más condições de encarceramento, enviar um sinal de que a repressão dos contestatários será levada ao extremo. Esta visão está claramente definida nos primeiros parágrafos do Decreto-Lei n.º 26 539, ao afirmar que serve para receber os presos políticos e sociais, sobre quem recai o dever de cumprir o desterro, aqueles que internados em outros estabelecimentos prisionais se mostram refractários à disciplina e ainda os elementos perniciosos para outros reclusos. Este diploma abrange também os condenados a pena maior por crimes praticados com fins políticos, os presos preventivos, e, por fim, os presos por crime de rebelião.
Foram 36 os prisioneiros políticos que morreram no Tarrafal: 32 portugueses, 2 angolanos e 2 guineenses.” (fonte: wikipédia)
- Comunidade dos Rabelados
No regresso do tarrafal paramos na Comunidade dos Rabelados onde tivemos a oportunidade de conhecer melhor um pouco da sua história e forma de vida. Ver (e comprar) a sua arte e brincar com algumas das dezenas de crianças que estavam por lá.
A Diana – tímida para as fotografias – foi a nossa guia, e acompanhada pela mãe levou-nos à sua casa, à lojinha onde vendem as suas peças de artesanato e a conhecer os outros meninos. Ainda um pouco afastados do resto da população cabo-verdiana, e baseados numa cultura quase auto-suficiente, estas comunidades veem claro nos poucos turístas que passam por lá a melhor oportunidade de conseguir algum dinheiro, têm algumas pinturas bem interessantes e a minha está pendurada à entrada de casa.
“Os Rabelados (do português rebelados) são uma comunidade religiosa que se encontra principalmente no interior da ilha de Santiago de Cabo Verde. Formaram-se a partir de grupos que se revoltaram contra as reformas na liturgia da Igreja Católica, introduzidas na década de 1940, e se isolaram do resto da sociedade, correndo hoje risco de extinção. Nos anos quarenta do século XX a Igreja Católica enviou para Cabo Verde alguns padres para substituir os locais, introduzindo alterações na celebração das missas e nos costumes religiosos, nomeadamente o ensino da religião. Alguns grupos da população rebelaram-se contra essas alterações. Conhecidos em crioulo como rabelados (rebelados, revoltados), passaram a exercer as suas antigas tradições na clandestinidade. Obrigada a formar grupos coesos para sobreviver, a comunidade dos Rabelados refugiou-se principalmente no interior de Santiago, nas zonas montanhosas de difícil acesso, nomeadamente nos concelhos do Tarrafal e de Santa Cruz. Nessas condições de semi-clandestinidade e isolamento foram preservadas as tradições religiosas e culturais e a independência face à hierarquia católica e ao poder político.” (fonte: wikipédia)
- Cidade Velha
Não devem perder a visita àquela que foi a primeira cidade construída pelos europeus a Sul do Deserto do Sahara e a primeira capital do arquipélago de Cabo Verde.
Inicialmente denominada Ribeira Grande foi fundada pelos portugueses em 1462, dois anos depois da chegada dos primeiros navegadores à ilha.
Foi local de passagem e apoio estratégico não só na comunicação marítima entre a Europa e a América e a África, tendo a cidade conhecido o seu momento áureo entre meados do século XV e finais do século XVI, mas também como ponto de passagem do tráfico negreiro no século XVII.
Pararam aqui Vasco da Gama, na sua viagem para a Índia em 1497 e Cristovão Colombo, na terceira viagem que fez ao continente americano em 1498.
A Cidade Velha de Santiago, devido ao seu valor histórico e património arquitetónico, foi classificada Património Mundial da Humanidade, pela UNESCO, em 2009.
Pontos de interesse na Cidade Velha:
- Pelourinho, erguido em 1520
- Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, erguida em 1495 – estilo manuelino – é a mais antiga igreja colonial do mundo
- Rua Banana, primeira rua de urbanização portuguesa nos trópicos
- Forte Real de São Filipe, erguido a 120 metros do mar – em 1590 – pode ser visto de toda a cidade e foi construído para defesa aos ataques de piratas e corsários.
- Ruínas da antiga catedral e da igreja e convento de São Francisco, saqueados e destruídos por piratas no século XVIII, hoje só podem ser visitadas as suas ruínas em muito mau estado de preservação.
Para além deste locais, aproveitem a praia e uma das esplanadas com cadeiras de plástico que vão encontrar a 10 metros do mar. A água é uma delícia, a areia preta dá-lhe todo um outro encanto e não vos vai faltar companhia para brincadeiras, já que miúdos divertidos não faltam por lá. Alguns jogam à bola, outros deliciam-se em mergulhos loucos e ainda encontrei dois empenhados em caçar borboletas. Foi um dia muito bom!
Outros posts sobre Santiago, Cabo Verde, no blogue
(+) Conhecer a cidade da Cidade da Praia
(+) Pestana Trópico | Alojamento em Santiago, Cabo Verde
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