Roteiro de 1 semana | Marrocos de carro

Quem acompanha as minhas Redes Sociais percebeu que estive recentemente em Marrocos e vim encantada de lá. Superou largamente as expectativas que levava e foi uma viagem incrível, de carro, que cruzou o país de Marraquexe a Tanger. Ficou a faltar muita coisa, principalmente a costa atlântica, mas deu para experimentar o país, conhecer algumas das principais cidades, aventurarmo-nos pelo interior e curtir o deserto. Espero em breve ter a oportunidade de voltar – deixo-vos com o meu roteiro para uma semana de viagem, é um bom pontapé de saída para explorarem o país.

Dia 1 – Marraquexe

Saímos de madrugada, com escala em Lisboa, e chegamos a Marraquexe à hora de almoço. Arrancamos logo a viagem entrando no espírito salve-se quem puder marroquino, já que o primeiro filme foi conseguir levantar o carro que tínhamos alugado na Hertz. Uma barraca armada naquele aeroporto, todos os clientes a reclamar sabe deus (ou alá) porquê e claro que a nós também nos tocou berbicacho – estavamos pela primeira vez em Marrocos num carro sem GPS (reservado e confirmado com antecedência) nem AC (shame on me, nem me lembrei de confirmar tal coisa). Ao fim de 2 horas e de Panda nas mãos, começou a aventura.
Antes de irmos até ao centro da cidade, onde ficava o nosso hotel, paramos nos Jardins Menara um primeiro cheirinho de um paraíso marroquino. Atravessamos a zona nova da cidade, de largas avenidas e hotéis de cadeias internacionais e chegámos finalmente à medina. Umas moedas depois, largamos o carro na mira de um arrumador marroquino (!) e embrenhamo-nos nas primeiras ruelas da medina à procura do Hotel Rita Wardate. Que encontramos sem problemas e que foi uma boa escolha para a noite em Marraquexe.
Ainda era meio da tarde e as horas que restavam até ao final do dia era tudo o que tínhamos para conhecer a cidade.
Deambular pela medina é sempre uma experiência incrível, por mais turística que seja – e a de Marraquexe é muito – perdia-me durante dias por lá.
Regateamos sandálias, visitamos os Jardins Secretos, ficamos à porta da Madrassa Ben Youssef (sem perceber bem porquê), estivemos na Koutoubia, bebemos sumos de frutas em Jema el-Fna e vimos o sol pôr-se de uma das varandas dos restaurantes da praça. Ainda sinto os sons e as cores daquele final de tarde indescritível e voltar a Marraquexe já está nos planos de novo!

(+) O que ver e fazer em Marraquexe

Dia 2 – Marraquexe – Ouarzzazate

O dia começou cedo com a última das visitas planeadas ainda na cidade, os Jardins Majorelle na Casa Yves Saint Laurent. Um dos cartões postais da cidade nos últimos anos e que rende umas fotos incríveis por entre os cactos ou com aquele azul forte de pano de fundo. O jardim está muito bem cuidado e é agradável e a visita só peca pela quantidade inacreditável de turistas que andam por lá, chegamos à primeira hora da manhã para a abertura e mesmo assim já mal se circulava em algumas zonas.
De lá fizemo-nos finalmente à estrada, para um dia duro de viagem em que tinhamos 250 km de estrada pela frente e o Atlas para cruzar. Foi o dia todo na estrada, nas piores condições possíveis – estradas horríveis, obras por quilómetros a fio, trânsito, troços a perder de vista em que o máximo eram 10 km/h e o Panda já quase parecia um todo o terreno. Chegamos ao nosso alojamento já de noite.
Pelo caminho conseguimos parar no Kasbah de Ait-Ben-Haddou, que valeu imenso a pena. Apesar de ser dos mais procurados, a visita foi tranquila e sem enchentes, gostei muito do local. Na cidade cinamatográfica de Ouarzazzate – não faz de todo o meu estilo, talvez seja engraçado para irem com os miúdos, mas nem achei bem conservado e em boas condições -, no Óasis de Fint (outro caminho dos infernos para lá chegar) e no Kasbah de Taourirt bem no centro de Ouzarzzate.
A noite levou-nos até à Chez Najate – o alojamento mais tradicional dos nossos dias em Marrocos, onde jantamos e dormimos cedo.

(+) Atravessando o Deserto do Sahara | Dia 1

Dia 3 – Ouarzzazate – Merzouga

Acordamos cedo no pequeno oásis onde ficava a Casa da D. Najate, e depois de um pequeno-almoço reforçado seguimos caminho em direção ao deserto. As principais paragens do dia foram nas Gargantas de Gorges, com o seu famoso miradouro sobre as estrada aos Sss mais famosa do país – sim, subimos de Panda, a 10km/h e em primeira! – e nas Gargantas de Todgha, um desfiladeiro impressionante do rio Todgha. pelo caminho passamos em inúmeros óasis de cortar a respiração. paisagens lindíssimas. Até nos aproximarmos de Rissani e Merzouga e a paisagem começar a ficar cada vez mais desértica.
Chegamos ao final da tarde ao hotel em Merzouga, onde já nos esperavam para a primeira incursão nas dunas de Erg Chebi, para um pôr-do-sol no deserto. Foi um passeio de camelo e a pé memorável, as cores do deserto ao final do dia são indescritíveis. Vale muito a pena! Essa foi a noite de dormir no deserto, jantamos mais uma tajine na tenda/sala e dormimos em tendas debaixo das estrelas. A comodista que há em mim não adorou a experiência. Eheheh, mas fica para registo futuro.

(+) Atravessando o deserto do Sahara | Dia 2

Dia 4 – Merzouga

O dia foi todo passado no deserto, entre aventuras de jeep pelas dunas, uma visita ao deserto negro, à lagoa dos flamingos, a caça aos fósseis, a visita a uma aldeia bebér e uma tarde de sol na piscina. Há sempre aquele dia mais preguiçoso numa viagem e o nosso foi este. Não dá para passar uma semana inteira na estrada e já precisávamos de um dia mais leve e relaxado. Este foi o dia!

(+) Atravessando o deserto do Sahara | Dia 3

Dia 5 – Merzouga – Fez

Regresso à rotina da madrugada e pé na estrada. O dia ia ser longo, de estrada, já que tinhamos umas centenas largas de kilómetros para conduzir até Fes. Pelo caminho paramos na Floresta de Cedros para ver os macacos e numa pequena localidade conhecida como a suiça marroquina – Ifrane. A vila não tem grandes atrativos, mas valeu porque precisavamos de descanso e porque uma vila com ar europeu em Marrocos é exótico qb.
A parte mais interessante da viagem foi a mudança da paisagem. Fiquei bastante surpreendida e impressionada com o quão verde é o norte de Marrocos. Muito mais verde que o Sul de Portugal e Espanha. Não estava nada à espera.
A chegada a Fes foi traquila, chegamos ao final da tarde e não acabamos perdidos para conseguir encontrar o nosso Riad no interior da Medina. Ainda conseguimos passear um pouco ao final da tarde e jantar uma Brochete (espetadas) num terraço com vista para a Porta Azul.

(+) Atravessando o deserto do Sahara | Dia 4

Dia 6 – Fez

Começamos o nosso dia a explorar a famosa medina de Fez, o maior conjunto de ruas pedonais do mundo, onde já meio mundo se perdeu, hehe. No passado, porque hoje em dia o sinal GPS salva qualquer um que queira sair daquele emaranhado de ruelas. Contratamos um guia local no hotel para fazer o passeio connosco, mais para garantir que não escapava nada e que não perdíamos tempo precioso para o resto do dia.
Embrenhamo-nos pelas zonas de mercado mais típicas, visitamos uma Madrassa/Museu, passamos à porta de algumas outras, bem como de uma série de mesquitas onde não pudemos nunca entrar. Foi a maior desilusão de Marrocos – não nos deixam entrar em Mesquita nenhuma. Não cheguei a perceber porquê, fechado a não-muçulmanos e pronto.
O ponto alto da manhã na Medina de Fez foi a visita aos cortumes/tinturarias. Não há imagem mais icónica da cidade, e convem sempre ter aquele connect que te vai levar à melhor varanda para ver cá para baixo, nem todas tem uma vista incrível. Apesar de tudo – foi uma pequena desilusão. Nada de cheiro nauseabundo. Eles até oferecem uma folhinha de menta para ir cheirando e já tinha ouvido relatos terríveis, mas não me custou nadinha estar ali, o cheiro nem sequer era forte e não me incomodou minimamente. Bem-vindos a Fes do novo milénio.
Depois de almoço pegamos no carro de novo, paramos em frente às portas douradas do Palácio Real de Fez e seguimos para Méknes, onde visitamos também a antiga Medina e o centro histórico da cidade. Gostei do espírito desta cidade, menos turística que Marraquexe e Fez.
Perto de Meknés, ainda fizemos uma paragem nas ruínas romanas de Volubilis, antes de regressar a Fez a tempo de aproveitar o pôr-do-sol do miradouro Borj Nord .

Dia 7 – Fez – Chefchaouen – Tanger

Voltamos a fazer-nos à estrada para um último dia bem longo. O objetivo final era apanhar o avião em Tânger, já de madrugada, mas ainda havia muito que visitar pelo caminho.
O objetivo principal do dia era conhecer a famosa Pérola Azul de Marrocos – Chefchaouen. Depois de ver dezenas de cartões-postal da cidade não podíamos deixar passar esta oportunidade. E a cidade é mesmo como se vê nas fotografias, tirando o facto de que ao lado de cada um daqueles spots lindos de morrer para uma fotografia, há uma fila de turistas à espera de vez para o seu click, e isso é muito estranho. As imagens são reais, mas a cidade está transformada numa pequena eurodisney para turistas. É fácil navegar por lá, vão-se embrenhando pelas ruínas e todas aquelas imagens vão passar por vocês. É azul por todo o lado. Apesar de ter estado por lá apenas algumas horas a meio do dia, poderia apostar que a melhor ideia é passar uma noite por lá e ter a oportunidade de aproveitar a cidade ao início e ao fim do dia, quando oas autocarros de turistas não estão por lá.
Antes de rumamos ao nosso destino final ainda tivemos a felicidade de parar em Tetouan e bela hora em que o fizemos. Foi a cidade mais autêntica que visitamos em Marrocos, é impressionante a diferença que faz o facto de não haver turistas em todo o canto esquina. Conhecida pela cidade branca, visitamos a Medina de tetouan, perdemo-nos no souk e saí de lá com um gostinho de quero mais. Mas o sol já quase se punha e havia que conduzir até Tânger, onde nos surpreendemos com uma cidade moderna e desenvolvida. Estivemos na Corniche, para um passeio noturno e o último jantar em Marrocos. De madrugada regressamos a casa.

(+) Tetouan

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*Esta publicação contém links afiliados

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