Uzebequistão e Sul do Cazaquistão | Roteiro
No final de Outubro fiz uma viagem ao Sul do Cazaquistão e ao Uzebequistão. Alguns podem ter acompanhado os meus dias por lá, na página do Facebook do blogue, mas trago-vos agora o roteiro completo e detalhado dos dias que passei por lá. A Ásia Central é um destino ainda desconhecido para muitos, mas parece-me que isso vai mudar nos próximos anos. Guardem este roteiro nos favoritos!
Dia 0 – Sai de Portugal durante a tarde, num voo da Turkish com escala em Isambul. Esta é uma das melhores opções para chegar à região. A Turkish voa durante a noite, o que permite chegar bem cedo e começar logo a aproveitar o dia. Voei para Almaty, no Cazaquistão.
Dia 1 – Cheguei de manhã cedo ao Cazaquistão e tinha o meu motorista na cidade à espera para me levar até à região montanhosa nos arredores da cidade. O objetivo era conhecer algum dos seus lagos. O Big Almaty Lake é um dos mais conhecidos e próximos da cidade, mas a estrada estava condicionada e acabamos por ir até ao Lago Issyk. Uma viagem de uma hora para cada lado, cruzando a imensa cordilheira que rodeia a cidade, o passeio é bem bonito e a cor da água do lago de fazer cair o queixo. De regresso à cidade, a tarde foi passada nas calmas no ajardinado centro da antiga capital cazaque. Entre algumas visitas, passeio e compras.
Dia 2 – O dia iria ser marcado pelo maior percurso de comboio da viagem, mas de manhã cedo ainda houve tempo para dar um último passeio pela cidade, ver o bazar despertar e dizer adeus a Almaty nas calmas. O meu comboio para o turkestan saiu à hora de almoço e só viria a chegar ao destino na madrugada seguinte. Foi uma loooonga viagem, passada entre leituras, pausas para apreciar a paisagem pela janela e o Cazaquistão que passava lá fora, e tempo para fazer amigos cazaques no comboio.
Dia 3 – Cheguei de madrugada ao Turkestan, ainda bem noite e mesmo a tempo de fazer um early check-in e ainda dormir mais uma sesta antes de começar o dia e explorar a cidade.
Este foi talvez o dia mais calmo da viagem. O principal atrativo da cidade é o Mausoléo de Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, bem ao lado do meu hotel, e acabei por visitá-lo varias vezes naquele dia, para tirar fotografias de todos os ângulos e luminosidades diferentes. À hora de almoço resolvi ir até ao centro da cidade, à zona do mercado, onde entre muitas dificuldades de comunicação mas bastantes gargalhadas não só comi como fiz alguns amigos e ainda fui à manicure.
Dia 4 – De manhã cedo parti de carro em direção à fronteira com o Uzbequistão, foram cerca de três horas de estrada e o motorista estava a largar-me – junto com a mala – em terra de ninguém. Atravessei sem problemas e estava do outro lado o meu motorista em Tashkent à espera. A capital uzbeque, fica a pouco quilómetros da fronteira e depressa iniciamos o nosso passeio pela cidade. Deu para ficar com uma boa ideia da capital e ao final do dia apanhar o comboio noturno para Khiva, onde iria começar a minha rota pelas cidades históricas da Rota da Seda.
(+) Sete coisas para ver e fazer em Tashkent | Uzbequistão
Dia 5 – Cheguei de manhã cedo à região de Khiva e fui direta para o hotel, onde larguei as trouxas, tomei banho, troquei de roupa e estava pronta para sair. Passei o dia a deambular pela cidade muralhada, as suas ruas esclusivamente pedonais, com construções em adobe pontuadas por cúpulas azuis deixou-me surpreendida. Khiva foi uma adição de última hora à lista de destinos da viagem e não podia ter sido melhor opção. A cidade é pequena e percorre-se em poucas horas, mas foi ótimo poder desfrutar com calma entre esplanadas.
Dia 6 – Este dia foi passado na estrada. A distância entre Khiva e Bukhara – o meu destino seguinte é grande e atravessar o deserto não é fácil, pelo que madruguei e a viagem durou até meio da tarde. Pelo caminho vi o Turquemenistão ao fundo e ainda tive oportunidade de comer um dos melhores shashliks (espetadas) da viagem.
Dia 7 – Dia inteiro dedicado a explorar a cidade de Bukhara. Ao contrário de Khiva, aqui já temos a sensação de “cidade grande”, mas o seu centro histórico é bastante concentrado pelo que facilmente podem conhecer tudo a pé num dia de passeio. Aproveitei para comer bem, relaxar, ler, fazer (demasiadas) compras. Foi um ótimo dia de passeio.
Dia 8 – De manhã cedo estava o gui à minha espera para me levar até Samarkanda. Talvez a mais conhecida das cidades da rota da Seda. A viagem foi bem mais curta que a anterior e no fim de almoço estava no meu destino, o São Pedro não colaborou em nada e choveu toda a tarde, pelo que o passeio pela cidade ficou bastante comprometido. Houve uma trégua depois do jantar, a tempo para espreitar o show de luz e som na Praça do Registão.
Dia 9 – Samarkanda é uma cidade enorme, e para conhecê-la num dia vão precisar de transporte à disposição, foi o que fiz. Os principais pontos de interesse da cidade são bastante afastados, terão de apanhar um táxi para ir até à Necrópole (imperdível), ao observatório ou ao museu da cidade. No centro entre o bazar, a praça do Registão, algumas mesquitas e mausoléos há uma série de pontos de interesse que podem visitar a pé, mas fica tudo bem mais longe do que parece à primeira vista. Ao final do dia apanhei o comboio rápido para Tashkent, a minha viagem estava quase a chegar ao fim.
Dia 10 – Dia de voltar a casa, saí de manhã cedo de Tashkent com a Turkish, de regresso à Europa. A viagem ainda permitiu um stop-over para matar saudades de Istambul. E no dia seguinte de manhã cedo estava de regresso à rotina.
Em breve, todos os posts detalhados sobre os locais visitados durante a viagem. Fiquem ligados! 🙂
Planeia a tua viagem!
Se quiseres planear a tua viagem de forma independente, tal como eu faço, usa os links que deixo abaixo.
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Qualquer dúvida, manda-me um e-mail e posso ajudar no que precisares.
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