Atravessando o deserto do Sahara | Dia 1 | de Marraquexe a Ouarzazate
Um dos maiores desafios da roadtrip de 2019 em Marrocos, foi cruzar o interior do país, entre Marraquexe e Fes, cruzando o Atlas e percorrendo o deserto na região de Merzouga, até chegar ao norte. Aconselho que tirem no mínimo 3 dias para o fazer, nós demoramos quatro e foi a conta ideal.
Partindo de Marraquexe, a primeira parte da viagem – e a mais tenebrosa – é cruzar a cordilheira do alto Atlas. Não pela montanha ser intransponível mas porque a qualidade da estrada é péssima. Com quilómetros e quilómetros de obras e estradas em gravilha onde dificilmente andam a mais de 20 km/h. Trânsito não há muito e o traçado não é péssimo, vão passar por belas paisagens pelo caminho, mas contem com muitas horas para fazerem 200 km.
O nosso primeiro dia incluia visitar ainda de manhã cedo os jardins Majorelle, em Marraquexe, e arrancar de seguida, com destino final poucos quilómetros depois de Ouarzazate. Pelo caminho visitamos Ait-Ben-Haddou, a cidade cinematográfica, o Kasbah de Taourirt e o Oásis de Fint.
O desvio para Ait-Ben-Haddou vale muito a pena e gostei de conhecer o Kasbah de Taourirt. Esqueçam lá isso da cidade cinematográfica, não tem jeito nenhum – na minha modesta opinião – e o oásis é engraçado, mas não justifica o desvio, vão cruzar-se com muitos outros semelhantes pelo caminho.
Ait- Ben-Haddou
Este é um dos kasbah mais conhecidos da região. Talvez aquele que atrai mais turistas e à chegada percebe-se porquê. A primeira imagem da cidade fortificada, declarada património mundial da UNESCO em 1987, com os seus edifícios de adobe pela colina acima, cercada por uma faixa verdejante e o riacho na base, conquista logo qualquer viajante.
Vale a pena entrarem com tempo na zona muralhada, e explorar os recantos escondidos da cidade, para além das ruas principais já tomadas pelo artesanato local e pelas lembranças para turista.
Kasbah de Taourirt
No centro da cidade de Ouarzazate, fica o Kasbah de Taourirt. Ao contrário de vários outras kasbah (cidade fortificada) com que se vão deparar pelo caminho, este não tem ar de óasis perdido no meio do nada, porque cresceu e se transformou num dos maiores aglomerados populacionais da região. Depois do Atlas e a caminho do deserto, é a maior cidade por onde vão passar, mas vale a pena parar por aqui e explorar as construções de adobe que ainda se conservam e onde há vive parte da população – ao contrário de Ait-Ben-Haddou, aqui vimos mais crianças a jogar à bola e roupa a secar do que lojinhas a vender magnetes. E isso é o melhor destas descobertas.
Antes do nosso dia terminar ainda nos metemos em duas aventuras demoníacas. 1. Chegar de carro até ao Oásis de Flint, esqueçam a estrada, é terrível, mas pelo caminho vão cruzar-se com estas formações rochosas que quase fazem lembrar o deserto australiano. O oásis, bem, não justifica o pesadelo. 2. Chegar ao alojamento foi toda uma outra aventura… já que era noite e nem havia estrada – estava em obras. Mas fomos compensados por uma jantar tradicional à chegada, e depressa esquecemos o stress da viagem.
(+) Roteiro de 1 semana | Marrocos
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