Passadiços de Sistelo | Arcos de Valdevez | #EuFicoEmPortugal
A rubrica #EuFicoEmPortugal que começa este mês de Junho vai estrear-se mesmo ao pé de casa. O primeiro passeio pós-confinamento foi até aos passadiços de Sistelo, uma das Aldeias que entrou na famosa votação das Maravilhas de Portugal e carinhosamente apelidada de tibete português, graças aos seus socalcos e opções de trilhos para os percorrer.
De caminho passamos pela sede de concelho, os Arcos de Valdevez, uma vila simpática nas margens do rio Vez, famosa pela sua história ligada às lutas pela nacionalidade e independência, no século XII.
Portugal a entrar em desconfinamento, tudo a querer sair de casa e apanhar um pouco de ar fresco, foi a desculpa ideal para pegar no carro e ir até Sistelo, no concelho dos Arcos de Valdevez, conhecer os famosos socalcos e percorrer um dos seus trilhos.
Famosa, desde que o concurso Maravilhas de Portugal, a elegeu na categoria de Aldeias Rurais, Sistelo é uma pequena aldeia a cerca de 45 minutos de carro da sede de concelho. Não estava a contar com esta distância, mas a estrada não é terrível mesmo para os mais enjoados “literalmente” como eu.
Sistelo merece o passeio, com as suas vacas cachenas a passear pelas ruas, os espigueiros que se confundem com as poucas casas da aldeia e as suas ladeiras verdes, é um bom refúgio para um dia de desconfinamento, longe das multidões e em contacto com a Natureza.
Oferece opção de uma série de trilhos mais ou menos complexos. Nós acabamos por fazer o PR25 – o Trilho dos Passadiços de Sistelo, que nos leva até ao leito do Rio Vez – uma ótima opção para o dia de calor que fazia, já que passa por algumas zonas que possibilitam uma ida a banhos e é quase todo ele em zona de sombra criada pela vegetação do vale. É um percurso para iniciantes, com quase dois quilómetros e uma descida/subida inicial/final mais acentuada.
PR25 Trilho dos Passadiços de Sistelo
“A calçada inicial deste trilho conduz-nos às margens do rio Vez.
Depois de atravessar a ponte sobre o rio e percorrermos o passadiço da ecovia do Vez a caminho da capela do Srº dos Aflitos regressamos a Sistelo por caminhos de pedras moldados pelos tradicionais carros de bois.“
Uma das opções mais “típicas”, seria realizar o PR24, o Trilho dos Socalcos – a imagem de marca da aldeia. Este trilho tem quase 6 quilómetros e a subida inicial demoveu-nos já que o calor apertava. No entanto, e como não poderíamos deixar de explorar os socalcos, há a possíbilidade de ir de carro até ao “Miradouro dos Socalcos”. Podem ver desde cima a zona que o trilho percorre e ter uma panorâmica dos socalcos verdes – encrustados nas montanhas adjacentes – ainda mais imponente. Foi uma excelente opção.
PR24 Trilho dos Socalcos
“Este trilho desenvolve-se no quadro que é a marca de Sistelo – os socalcos. A subida entre socalcos desvenda o maneio ancestral que muda de cor com as estações do ano. A consociação milho-feijão tarreste e os campos de feno pontuados de medeiras estivais dão lugar aos luminosos prados lima no Inverno.
As corgas que correm para o rio Vez são corredores de vida. Bordos, bidoeiros, amieiros e aveleiras dão refúgio às aves canoras. As cachenas e as ovelhas lembram que o ecossistema vive da interação com a agrosilvopastoricia e as transumâncias sazonais. Os muros de granito coloridos pelas urzes sustentam os socalcos regados pelas levadas. Em Padrão, a organização do casario e os espigueiros acolhem os visitantes e as vistas sobre Sistelo permitem o voo do olhar. “
Podem consultar todos os detalhes sobre estes e outros trilhos, e todas as atividades de Natureza do concelho dos Arcos de Valdevez. aqui!
Arcos de Valdevez, onde Portugal se fez!
Famosa pela realização do Torneio de Arcos de Valdevez, esta vila do Alto-Minho merece a vossa visita.
O centro histórico tem alguns edifícios históricos bem conservados, vale a pena a caminhada até ao cimo da colina, no centro da vila, onde vão encontrar o Pelourinho e a Igreja do Espírito Santo. Junto ao Rio Vez, vale a pena o passeio desde a Ponte Velha, até à Praia Fluvial da Valeta.
Para além disto, não devem sair dos Arcos sem provar um naco de carne cachena. Recomendo muito para os amantes de carne.
“O Torneio de Arcos de Valdevez ou Recontro de Valdevez aconteceu na chamada ‘Veiga da Matança’, às margens do rio Vez (tributário do rio Lima), em Arcos de Valdevez, quando D. Afonso Henriques, após a vitória na Batalha de Ourique (1139), rompeu a paz de Tui (1137) e invadiu a Galiza. Em resposta, as forças de Afonso VII de Leão e Castela entraram em terras portuguesas, arrasando os castelos à sua passagem, e desceram as montanhas do Soajo em direção a Valdevez.
Para evitar a batalha campal, foram selecionados os melhores cavaleiros de ambos os lados para lutarem entre si num torneio ou justa, conforme o uso na Idade Média. A sorte das armas pendeu para o lado português, tendo os cavaleiros leoneses ficado detidos, conforme o código da cavalaria medieval.
Alguns historiadores consideram que o episódio foi o passo decisivo e a última etapa para o nascimento de Portugal, pois antecedeu a celebração do Tratado de Zamora em 1143. Com a vitória dos seus cavaleiros no Reconto, Afonso Henriques aproveitou as boas graças da Igreja, e, por intermédio do Arcebispo de Braga, D. João Peculiar, fez com que o Papa Inocêncio II aceitasse a sua vassalagem contra o pagamento de um censo (quantia que os reis pagavam ao Papa) de quatro onças de ouro por ano.
O Arcebispo enviou depois o Cardeal Guido de Vico junto de Afonso VII, obtendo deste, no tratado de Samora (Zamora), o título de rei que D. Afonso Henriques passou a usar, no papel, e de facto e de direito.
Em Arcos de Valdevez existe um monumento que recorda o reconto de Valdevez, de autoria do escultor José Rodrigues. Igualmente ao pé do Museu de Arcos de Valdevez existe um marco evocativo desse Torneio de Cavaleiros.” in Mundo Português
Sugestão de alojamento:
(+) Ribeira Collection – Arcos de Valevez
Fiquei uma noite alojada neste hotel, bem nas margens do rio Vez e recomendo a estadia por lá. Não é propriamente uma pechincha mas as condições do hotel são muito boas. (ótimas para descansar depois de percorrer os passadiços de sistelo e chegar mesmo a precisar de sopas e descanso)
Moderninho, de decoração simples mas cuidada, os quartos são espaçosos e têm boas condições. Memorável mesmo, ainda hoje sonho com elas, são as toalhas de banho e os conjunto edredon/colchão/almofada. Senti-me abraçada.
O hotel dispõe “apenas” de piscina interior (envidraçada e virada ao rio), mas o jardim exterior tem espreguiçadeiras e acesso à água, no rio Vez.
A localização é imbatível. Deixo-vos com algumas fotografias.
Outros trilhos e passadiços a percorrer:
(+) Ecovia Litoral Norte
(+) Trilhos das Lagoas de Bertiandos
(+) Passadiços do Paiva
Planeia a tua viagem!
Se quiseres planear a tua viagem de forma independente, tal como eu faço, usa os links que deixo abaixo.
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