Ao longo do Rio Lima | #EuFicoEmPortugal
Para além do Minho, e de vários outros pequenos cursos de água, o rio Lima é o maior curso de água do Alto-Minho, e ao longo do qual vamos encontrar algumas das cidades e vilas mais importantes da região. No âmbito da iniciativa #EuFicoEmPortugal tinha-me proposto ir até aos concelhos de Viana do Castelo e Ponte de Lima, mas acabei por ter oportunidade de ir um pouco mais longe, até Ponte da Barca. E é por aí que vamos começar, descendo ao longo do rio Lima, do PNPG até à foz, no Atlântico.
O Rio Lima nasce em Espanha, na província de Ourense e completa apenas 41km em terras de nuestros hermanos antes de entrar em Portugal, em pleno Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês, junto à vila do Lindoso. Atravessa o Gerês, passa por Ponte da Barca, Ponte de Lima e desagua no Atlântico na cidade – capital de distrito – Viana do Castelo.
Vamos começar este percurso a montante, em pleno parque nacional, na zona de Entre-Ambos-os-Rios e terminar junto à Foz.
Entre-Ambos-os-Rios – Lima Escape
Situado no coração do Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês, convida ao contacto com a Natureza, ao isolamento, ao descanso ou à aventura – conforme os gostos. Na manhã que passamos por lá, aventuramo-nos num passeio de paddle (SUP) e canoagem com a Aktivanatura – empresa de Ponte da Barca que oferece uma série de atividades desportivas na região do PNPG – e conhecemos o empreendimento Lima Escape – originalmente um parque da campismo mais tradicional que abraçou as tendências atuais e conta com umas opções encantadoras para fazer glamping ou alugar um bungalow suspenso com vista para o rio.
Ponte da Barca
Com foral de 1125, esta localidade no coração do Alto Minho, deve o seu nome à “barca” que aqui ajudava os peregrinos, que caminhavam para norte em direção a Santiago, a cruzar as duas margens do rio Lima. A ponte que ainda hoje vemos no centro da vila surgiu apenas no século XV e renomeou a região, que outrora foi conhecida como Terra da Nobrega. Almoçamos no simpático restaurante Vai à Fava, mesmo no centro da Barca, num dia muito quente em que aproveitamos a esplanada com vista para o rio. A comida, e os verdes da região completaram o cenário e não podiam ter caído melhor.
Por entre a conversa animada e o fim de almoço ainda tivemos tempo para um curto passeio no centro da vila e para conhecer um pouco da história de Fernão de Magalhães, que Ponte da Barca reclama para si como filho da terra numa das versões atualmente mais aceites pelos historiadores.
Ponte de Lima
Se continuarmos Rio Lima abaixo, em direção à foz, Ponte de Lima, irá surgir rapidamente no nosso caminho. E para honrar a tradição de descer ao longo do rio Lima, uma das primeiras atividades que fizemos ao chegar à vila foi um passeio no recuperado barco “Água Arriba“. Mestre Caninhas, natural da zona de Lanheses, a poucos quilómetros dali, construiu uma réplica deste barco com imensa dedicação e enquanto nos guiava ao longo das águas contou-nos com paixão a história da tradição do água arriba que em noutros tempos fazia o transporte de pessoas e mercadorias entre ponte da Barca e Viana do Castelo. É vontade do Mestre Caninhas dar ainda mais vida a este seu projeto e poder realizar passeios no rio com mais e melhores condições, fomos testemunhas da promessa do presidente da câmara de Ponte de Lima – também impulsionador esta iniciativa – de que em breve haverá um pequeno cais de embarque e vocês poderão também fazer um destes passeios. Garanto que vale a pena.
Ainda em ponte de Lima, tivemos a hipótese de fazer uma pequena visita guiada, a pé e de charrete, pelo bem conservado centro histórico da vila – uma das mais famosas da região. Ouvir histórias senhoriais e de peregrinos, já que se cruzam aqui vários percursos do caminho de Santiago.
A passagem por Ponte de Lima levou-nos ainda a almoçar com uma fantastica vista para o vale no Monte da Madalena, a visitar o Paço de Calheiros, um dos muitos solares da região, pertencente ao Conde de Calheiros e totalmente preparado para turismo de habitação, a a uma passagem pelo Clube Náutico, onde estivemos à conversa com o Fernando Pimenta e ainda demos umas braçadas, a remos.
Bertiandos
Como estamos em época de atividades ao ar livre e Natureza, antes de rumarem a Viana sugiro uma paragem nas Lagoas de Bertiandos.
Esta zona de paisagem natural protegida, com com uma série de trilhos e passadiços que a cruzam em toda a sua extensão e permite um bom programa relaxante de apenas uma ora ou de dia inteiro. Há trilhos de várias extensões, zonas de observação da fauna e flora local e um centro de interpretação aberto ao público.
Fiz o Percurso da Lagoa, um dos mais curto e que percorre todo o diâmetro exterior da lagoa maior da reserva natural, mas como podem ver aqui, há percursos de dimensões muito maiores – para os verdadeiros amantes de trilhos e natureza, e pontos de interesse histórico e cultural.
Viana do Castelo
Sede de distrito, mantém-se longe das confusões e com espírito e dimensão de província. A cidade foi remodelada há alguns anos – inserido no Programa Polis – e toda a sua frente ribeirinha adquiriu nova cara.
Esta é uma das zonas de destaque da cidade, junto ao rio Lima podem visitar o antigo navio-hospital Gil Eanes, conhecer os novos edifícios administrativos, biblioteca, e sala de espetáculos em redor da Praça da Liberdade – com assinaturas de Fernando Távora, Álvaro Siza e Souto Moura, ou passear calmamente no jardim que liga a Ribeira à Marina.
A uma curta caminhada vão encontrar o centro histórico. O Chafariz e os Paços do Concelho, na Praça da República, bem como a Igreja Matriz merecem uma visita. Caso ainda tenham alguma disponibilidade, recomendo o Museu do Traje – onde podem conhecer as cores vivas dos fatos tradicionais folclóricos que tão bem simbolizam o Minho. Não percam a visita à cidade sem passar no famoso Manuel Natário – onde se podem delicioar não só com as afamadas Bolas de Berlim mas com uma variedade imensa de salgados inesquecíceis (acompanhados por uma tacinha de vinho branco) – e antes da partida subam até Santa Luzia , as vistas sobre a cidade, o rio e o mar não desiludem!
Onde ficar alojado:
Deixo-vos aqui uma série de opções de alojamento nas principais localidades referidas ao longo do artigo. Conheci alguns dos alojamentos, outros estão extremamente bem localizados e bem cotados no Booking.com. Todos eles serão boas opções a considerar.
Ponte da Barca
(+) Lima Escape (Entre-Ambos-os-Rios)
(+) Hotel Fonte Velha
Ponte de Lima
(+) Paço de Calheiros (Calheiros)
(+) Hotel Mercearia da Vila
(+) Hotel Império do Norte
Viana do Castelo
(+) Hotel Flor do Sal – Praia Norte
(+) Pensão Laranjeira
(+) Hotel Fábrica do Chocolate
(+) Casa Melo e Alvim
Parte desta viagem foi realizada a convite do Turismo do Porto e Norte.
Planeia a tua viagem!
Se quiseres planear a tua viagem de forma independente, tal como eu faço, usa os links que deixo abaixo.
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*Esta publicação contém links afiliados
Ruthia Portelinha
July 26, 2020 at 4:55 amAinda não conheço a região da Lagoa de Bertiandos, tenho que ir explorar um dia destes. Adorei o stand up paddle no rio Lima, fiquei com vontade de voltar com o miúdo e fazer a actividade completa (parece que se chega a um ponto que se fica completamente rodeado de árvores, sem ver vivalma).
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