O que ver e fazer em Beirute | Líbano
O Líbano era uma das viagens mais esperadas, há já algum tempo. Planeada e replaneada, esteve para ser feita em grupo, foi marcada e cancelada vezes sem conta, surgiram imensos contra-tempos e “medos” pela convulsão social nas datas da viagem, pelo surgimento ainda tímido de um vírus e acabou por ser – no carnaval de 2020 – o meu sexagésimo carimbo no passaporte. Poucos dias depois, o mundo entrou em lockdown e o final desta história ainda está por contar… Mesmo não sabendo quando poderão (ou poderei voltar), deixo-vos com o meu relato e sugestões do que ver e fazer em Beirute.
Para onde quer que se virem vão encontrar todos os superlativos a descrever a cidade de Beirute. Todos eles fazem jus à verdade, é uma cidade moderna, cosmopolita, vibrante e a famosa denominação – como A Paris do Médio Oriente – tem uma razão muito válida de ser.
O contraste entre a arquitectura colonial francesa no centro da cidade e a reconstrução moderna da cidade virada ao Mediterrâneo resultou muito bem e a cidade de hoje em dia é bonita, agradável, arejada e parece inacreditável pensar que a guerra civil e a destruição estão a menos de vinte anos de distância.
Beirute reinventou-se, soube manter o património e abraçar o futuro, e num curto espaço de tempo. Espero que tenham oportunidade de conhecer a cidade, um dia. Ficam as minhas sugestões, sobre o que ver e fazer por lá.
1. Pigeon’s Rock no Mediterrâneo
Este é provavelmente o cartão-postal mais famoso da cidade de Beirute, as duas rochas que se encontram junto à escarpa costeira da zona mais ocidental da cidade e que facilmente podem ser observadas da corniche (avenida junto ao mediterrâneo). A hora do pôr-do-sol é provavelmente a mais concorrida – e a paisagem explica bem porquê – mas pode ser uma opção de passeio noutras horas do dia, em que o sol de fundo não “atrapalhe” algumas fotografias.
2. Centro da cidade
A arquitectura não engana, a traça colonial francesa está ao virar de cada esquina. Hoje em dia, o centro da cidade é um centro comercial a céu aberto cheio dos mais famosos designers e estilistas mundiais, um souk dos tempos modernos com belas opções de restauração e bares. Elegância em cada esquina.
Aqui podem visitar também algumas das atrações históricas da cidade – a mesquita Mohammed alAmid com as suas cúpulas azuis é a imagem da cidade, mas nas redondezas encontram ainda as ruínas dos banhos romanos, a catedral de St George, o Parlamento e a famosa Praça Nijmeh (que só vi de longe, estava bloqueada pelas manifestações dos últimos meses)
3. Marina e Corniche
A relação de Beirute com o Mediterrâneo é de excelência, com uma enorme faixa costeira, do porto de mar, passando pela marina e percorrendo toda a corniche até à região de Pigeon’s rock, mais a ocidente. Um enorme “calçadão” no topo da escarpa e com algumas zonas de praia e acesso ao mar.
Remodelados prédios de habitação compõem estas avenidas e as vistas são de excelência. Beirute sabe aproveitar o que a natureza lhe dá.
4. Hamra
Ficamos alojados nesta região, é a zona mais comercial e de bulício para os libaneses comuns. Sem a opulência do centro da cidade, está muito bem localizada – a uma curta caminhada do centro ou do mar. Achei uma boa opção na relação qualidade/preço e um local privilegiado para perceber como é o dia-a-dia longe das atrações turísticas e dos bairros onde o poder de compra se destaca.
Percam um bocadinho de tempo a explorar as lojas locais. Marcas fora do circuito e com alguns achados que valem a pena.
5. Museu Nacional de Beirute
Numa região historicamente não rica, não poderiamos deixar de visitar o principal museu de arqueologia do país. O Museu Nacional de Beirute, surgiu na primeira metade do século XX. Foi bombardeado, saqueado e inundado durante a Guerra Civil e voltou a abrir portas ao público apenas no final do século.
Hoje em dia podem conhecer por lá artefactos de todas as civilizações que passaram pela região. A exposição atravessa os tempos e as diversas regiões do país. Destaca-se a sala de sarcófagos.
6. Comida Libanesa
A comida mediterrânea nunca desilude, seja num extremo ou no outro, onde há azeite tudo tende a ser bom. O Líbano não é excepção e vim de lá com a saber que afinal gostava de húmus (porque o que se vê por aí em Portugal à venda são os piores húmus da história). Isto para não falar das azeitonas. E do pão. Para além disso muitas espetadas tradicionais do médio oriente com a sempre presente carne de carneiro. Com tanto quilómetro de costa a opção peixes e mariscos também está disponível e vale a pena. Come-se muito bem no Líbano como um todo, e a capital oferece uma variedade imensa de restaurantes, dos mais tradicionais aos chefes atuais mais renomados.
Recomendo que visitem o restaurante T-Marbouta, escondido dentro da zona comercial onde se destaca o Starbucks da Hamra street, comemos muito bem. Outra opção de destaque – pelas melhores vistas – é o Bay Rock Cafe, mesmo em frente ao Pigeon’s Rock.
Entrem numa das lojas de doces tradicionais libaneses (há várias em Hamra), não são baratas, mas para além do que comprarem, o preço inclui todas as provas que vão fazer por lá, e acreditem que vos vão impingir um bolinho de cada. kkk
Sugestão de Alojamento – J Hotel and Spa
Localizado mesmo no centro de Hamra, uma excelente relação qualidade/preço já que o alojamento na cidade não é propriamente barato. Está classificado em 4**** mas diria que cumpre bem os requisitos de um 3*** para padrão europeu. Voltaria a ficar por lá. Pontos extra para a simpatia dos funcionários que estiveram em permanente contacto antes e durante a nossa estadia, ajudaram a resolver todas as questões que surgiram e zelaram para que a experiência fosse perfeita.
(+) Reservas J Hotel and Spa – Beirute
O que há mais no Líbano?
Beirute é uma capital extremamente bem situada. Num país pequeno como o Líbano é possível fazer da cidade base para explorar o país de ponta a ponta. As opções são imensas, há inúmeros programas culturais, históricos ou de natureza que podem ser feitos numa viagem de um dia a partir da capital.
Por isso, para além do que ver e fazer em Beirute, em breve deixarei aqui alguns posts sobre o que ver e fazer no Líbano
Acabei por escolher três programas distintos: visitar a cidade de Trípoli no norte do país, visitar as ruínas de Baalbek no interior junto à Síria, e a conhecer a cidade costeira de Byblos. Imagino que todas as outras opções fossem tão interessantes quanto estas, que valeram muito a pena e serão tema para outro post.
(+) Passeios de um dia (bate-volta) a partir de Beirute (em breve)
![](https://sempreentreviagens.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_6052.jpg)
[Nota a 05.08.2020: Este post ficou escrito nos rascunhos durante algum tempo, apenas à espera da seleção das imagens. Ao dia de hoje, um dia depois das explosões no porto de mar que destruíram o centro da cidade, muita desta informação pode parecer não fazer muito sentido. Provavelmente se visitarem Beirute nos próximos anos não vão conseguir reconhecer a cidade que descrevo aqui. Mas tal como nos últimos 20 anos, estou certa que Beirute e os libaneses vão conseguir voltar a reinventar-se e irão renascer das cinzas uma vez mais. Fica o registo da cidade em fevereiro de 2020. Voltarei para um registo futuro.]
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Miguel A. Gonçalves
August 5, 2020 at 9:07 pmComo demonstrado neste artigo, Beirute é uma cidade sensacional, de tal ordem que me lembro de lá estar e dizer “viria viver para aqui já amanhã!”. É um choque ver o que aconteceu esta semana, mas voltará, certamente, a renascer das cinzas! 🙂
Inês
August 6, 2020 at 6:55 amSim, acredito mesmo que sim! Eles são resilientes e Beirute vai voltar à vida ainda com mais garra. 🙂
Diana Bencatel
August 25, 2020 at 9:01 amFicámos com imensa vontade de conhecer Beirute! Obrigada pela partilha da tua experiência por lá.
Inês
August 28, 2020 at 6:51 amVale mesmo a pena. Espero que em breve seja possível fazê-lo em segurança e com tranquilidade de novo.
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