Património Mundial no Centro | O lado B
A convite do Turismo do Centro e inserido no projeto “O Lado B do Património Mundial no Centro de Portugal”, fui recentemente até aos concelhos de Alcobaça e da Batalha para descobrir algumas das suas propostas menos conhecidas do público em geral. Claro que perder os “lados A” é impensável, os mosteiros de Alcobaça e da Batalha devem entrar em qualquer roteiro, mas ficam aqui algumas sugestões para desenhar um programa diferente mas igualmente interessante.
A minha sugestão de roteiro na região é para um dia de viagem mais cheio, mas pode ser encaixada ao longo de um fim-de-semana tranquilo em que aproveitem também para descansar e desfrutar um pouco mais da região. Depende do vosso ritmo e estilo de viagem.
Começar o dia em Reguengo do Fetal
Esta aldeia do concelho da Batalha, uma perfeita desconhecida do público em geral, justifica a viagem com as suas belezas naturais e com a história que a liga ao ex-libris da região, o Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória.
Cheguei sozinha, de manhã cedo para encontrar o grupo de bloggers da abvp e meia perdida pelas ruelas fui logo recebida com entusiasmo pelo Sr. Jorge, dono do café junto à Igreja Matriz, que me aconselhou o melhor lugar para estacionar o carro – mesmo ao alcance da vista dele que “assim vai descansada que eu deito-lhe um olho pela viatura”.
O grupo chegou, juntaram-se os nossos anfitriões, e começamos a descobrir o Reguengo. Visitamos quatro locais principais que sugiro que incluam no vosso roteiro:
– A Igreja Matriz de Reguengo do Fetal, edifício construído no séc. XVI em honra de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. Está localizado no centro do Reguengo, na Praça da Fonte (ou da Palmeira) a poucos metros do café do Sr. Jorge. O destaque na Igreja vai para os arcos de acesso às capelas laterais que foram trazidos do Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória (Batalha) para uma das requalificações da Igreja
– Ermida de Nossa Senhora do Fetal. O milagre mais conhecido que envolve pastorinhos e a região não é o da Senhora do Fetal, mas consta que por cá, num ano de seca e fome, Nossa Senhora apareceu a uma pastorinha e lhe encheu de pão uma arca de vazia. No local foi construída a Ermida (séc XVI, entretanto remodelada). Há anualmente uma procissão noturna, entre a Ermida e a Igreja Matriz 9 dias antes das festas locais em honra de Nossa Senhora do Fetal (primeiro fim-de-semana de Outubro) em que as ruas são iluminadas por lucernas feitas de cascas de caracol com azeite a arder. Eu fiquei tentada a voltar para assistir.
– Uma das muitas entradas para o conjunto de grutas calcárias da Serra de Aire e Candeeiros fica bem próximo do centro do Reguengo e é conhecido como o Buraco Roto. Fizemos uma visita acompanhada pelo Danilo (das grutas da Moeda) e percorremos alguns túneis das formação cárcica que a água escavou e aprendemos um pouco mais sobre a geologia e a flora da região. Não visitem as grutas desacompanhados, principalmente em época de chuvas, porque as inundações são frequentes.
– Por último fomos conhecer a antiga Pedreira de Valinho do Rei, o local de onde foi extraída a pedra utilizada para a construção do Mosteiro da Batalha. A pedreira foi utilizada apenas àquela época mas é um ponto histórico relevante, hoje em dia proporciona um passeio interessante, a pé pela serra, com vistas sobre a região.
Mosteiro de Coz e Atelier de Cestas
Depois de um almoço apetitoso com vista para as capelas imperfeitas do mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória na Batalha, no restaurante Burro Velho , seguimos até ao concelho de Alcobaça. Primeira paragem em Coz, para visitar o menos conhecido, mas não menos interessante Mosteiro de Coz e o atelier das famosas cestas de junco.
O Mosteiro foi o maior convento cistrence feminino (ordem de Cister) e data do século XVII. Os terrenos já pertenciam à ordem desde o tempo de D. Afonso Henriques, que os cedeu como recompensa pela ajuda durante a Reconquista e nele já habitava um grupo de “viúvas piedosas” que faziam o seu serviço de apoio à comunidade e que mais tarde se viria a transformar em ordem religiosa.
Um dos maiores atrativos da localidade é o famoso Artesanato de Junco – Cestaria, que tão em voga tem estado nos últimos anos. Aproveitamos para visitar o atelier, testar os nossos dotes na construção de uma cesta e ver quem realmente sabe a fazê-las. Um belo presente para miúdas e graúdas.
Terminar à mesa no Museu do Vinho
O dia terminou no maior e mais abrangente Museu do Vinho do país, o único que abrange toda a história do vinho em Portugal e todas as regiões demarcadas e castas próprias de cada região. Tem uma coleção engraçada de garrafas e outros artefactos ligados à vindima bem como uma coleção muito interessante de propaganda da Antiga Junta Nacional do Vinho.
Para além disso mantem ainda uma “tasca” tradicional” onde podem ser servidas refeições e realizados pequenos eventos. Fomos recebidos com comida e de taça de vinho na mão, para um fim de dia perfeti a explorar o Lado B do Património Mundial no Centro de Portugal.
O lado A
“Mosteiro da Batalha ou Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória, foi mandado construir por D. João I em agradecimento pela vitória na Batalha de Aljubarrota.
A sua construção durou dois séculos (sete reinados) e só ficou concluída no ano de 1517, pelo que o estilo manuelino está presente em todo o edifício. As capelas imperfeitas, cujo planeamento começou anos mais tarde e nunca foram concluídas são um exemplo único do gótico português.
Estão aqui sepultados os reis D. Joao I e a rainha D. Filipa de Lencastre e ainda toda a sua descendência, a famosa Ínclita Geração.
É, desde 2007, Património Mundial da UNESCO. “
“O Mosteiro de Alcobaça , também conhecido como Real Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça é a primeira obra plenamente gótica erguida em solo português, tendo sido começada a sua construção em 1178 pelos monges da Ordem de Cister.
Um dos maiores atrativos do Mosteiro são os túmulos de D. Pedro i e de Inês de Castro, mandados construir após a sua subida ao trono e para onde ordenou a transladação de D. Inês, como rainha de Portugal, deixando em testamento o desejo de permanecerem frente a frente após a sua morte.
Está classificado como Património Mundial pela UNESCO desde 1989.”
Esta viagem foi realizada a convite do Turismo do Centro, e inserida numa ação de divulgação do Lado B dos monumentos Património Mundial no Centro de Portugal.
Planeia a tua viagem!
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