Os encantos de Coimbra
Há anos que Coimbra estava na minha lista de regressos a curto prazo, mas a oportunidade acabou por nunca aparecer até ao ano passado. Um fim-de-semana de passeio pós confinamento, em família, foi a desculpa ideal para voltar à cidade dos estudantes e redescobrir os encantos de Coimbra. E como não há fome que não dê em fartura, pouco tempo depois fui convidada para voltar à cidade, pelo Turismo do Centro e descobrir alguns dos atrativos mais escondidos da cidade. Deixo-vos a melhor compilação dos encantos de Coimbra.
O que visitar?
Centro histórico
O Centro da cidade é fácil de percorrer a pé por uma série de ruelas pedonais que vão, genericamente, do Largo da Portagem até à Câmara Municipal. Não vão precisar de grandes mapas nem roteiros definidos, deixem-se levar pelas ruelas, explorem um pouco do comercio tradicional que ainda está vivo na cidade e não deixem de passar por alguns pontos icónicos. A Igreja do Mosteiro de Santa Cruz, onde se encontra sepultado D. Afonso Henriques, a Igreja de São Tiago – gostei especialmente do enquadramento na cidade – e a Torre de Almedina, que podem visitar e subir para uma perspectiva diferente da cidade.
Duas sugestões fora do roteiro mais habitual são: a Sala da Cidade que alberga esporadicamente algumas exposições temporárias, e onde onde visitei a exposição “AEMINIUM – Coimbra, cidade há 2 mil anos” sobre a Coimbra Romana. E a mais recente exposicão da cidade “Judeus de Coimbra | da tolerância à perseguição | memórias e materialidades”, em exibição no Pátio da Inquisição, local onde funcionou o Tribunal do Santo Ofício na cidade.
Já a caminho da zona alta da cidade, visitem a Sé Velha de Coimbra.
Cidade Alta – Zona da Universidade
Património da Humanidade, a Universidade de Coimbra é a atração maior da cidade. Famosa pela sua Biblioteca Joanina e pelo Paço das Escolas, onde se destaca “a cabra”, é a imagem que na maioria dos casos temos da cidade.
Há anos que tentava visitar a biblioteca e nem sempre era fácil, os bilhetes esgotavam com enorme rapidez e nunca me foi possível, desta vez e num golpe de sorte consegui entrar e a visita não desilude. Percebe-se facilmente o porquê de ser a atração que é. Podem comprar bilhetes online, todas as visitas são guiadas, e incluem a Biblioteca Joanina, a Capela de São Miguel e o Palácio Real.
Para além desta visita clássica, e uma vez na zona alta da cidade recomendo que visitem o Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, pouco conhecido do público em geral mas que alberga uma coleção interessante que acompanha muito da história da cidade, bem como o criptopórtico romano mais bem conservado da Europa.
Não venham de lá sem explorar um pouco do Jardim Botânico da Universidade de Coimbra, atravessado pelo Aqueduto de São Sebastião, vale a pena a pequena caminhada.
O outro lado do Mondego
Atravessar a ponte no Largo da Portagem valeria a pena só pelas vistas para o Mondego e para a cidade que “o outro lado” pode proporcionar. Para além disso têm ainda para visitar, a uma curta caminhada a pé o Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha, em obras de requalificação mas com um museu adjacente. O requalificado Convento de São Francisco e bem lá no alto o Convento de Santa Clara-a-Nova.
Se forem fãs de miniaturas, de Portugal, de crianças ou de tudo um pouco, é também aqui que fica o famoso Portugal dos Pequenitos. Uma atração interessante para miúdos e graúdos que dá a conhecer um pouco mais da história e tradições de Portugal.
Comer em Coimbra
Na primeira noite fomos até ao “Zé Manel dos Ossos“, uma instituição na cidade. Abriu em meados do século passado e mantem-se na ementa até hoje o seu prato mais famoso: Ossos de porco cozidos. Hoje em dia constam do menu como uma entrada mas a minha recomendação é que ataquem os ditos ossos como refeição principal, a acompanhar com uns copos de vinhos e sem medos de comer à mão. Fica localizado no Beco do Forno, uma ruela vermelha no centro de Coimbra. É um imperdível.
Tão perto da Bairrada, o que também não queríamos perder era a oportunidade de comer um Leitão Assado na Brasa. A Mealhada fica ali a dois passos, mas o plano passava por descobrir um bom local para atacar o bichinho sem sair da cidade. E fomos bem sucedidos, mesmo ao lado do hotel, com um ar meio manhoso e escondido num beco em obras, descobrimos o “Joaquim dos Leitões” e valeu a pena o risco. O leitão estava ótimo, bem como os pastéis de leitão de comemos de entrada. Arrisco dizer que este é um dos maiores encantos de Coimbra.
Sugestão de Alojamento
Escolhemos o Vila Galé Coimbra, como opção de alojamento para este fim-de-semana. Olhando o mapa parecia um pouco fora do centro e levantou algumas dúvidas, mas a verdade é que a localização é muito boa. Foi muito fácil caminhar até ao centro (10 minutos).
O hotel é bem grande, com áreas comuns amplas, piscina exterior e interior. Pequeno-almoço muito variado e quartos confortáveis (com uma decoração de outros tempos, mas não se pode ter tudo). Uma boa opção de estadia em Coimbra.
(+) Vila Galé Coimbra | Booking.com
Sugestão de atividades nos arredores da cidade
Montemor-o-Velho e Tentúgal
Na antiga estrada nacional para a Figueira da Foz, e a poucos quilómetros de distância uma da outra, vão encontrar estas duas localidades. Montemor-o-Velho, e o seu castelo medieval bem conservado. Tentúgal e o histórico fabrico de pastéis. É uma ótima combinação para meio dia fora da cidade. As imagens falam por si.
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Se quiseres planear a tua viagem de forma independente, tal como eu faço, usa os links que deixo abaixo.
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