As maravilhas do Yucatán
Bem perto das incríveis praias de Cancún e da Riviera Maya, o estado do Yucatán é uma ótima opção para aliar um imersão cultural a uns dias de praia e descanso no México. Com base em Valladolid, fiz uma roadtrip pela região em fevereiro de 2022 e deixo aqui as minhas dicas, as maravilhas do Yucatán que não podem perder.
Mérida, a capital do estado
Mérida é uma capital com mais de 1 milhão de pessoas e isso nota-se no movimento e no bulício da cidade. Tem uma organização muito à america com ruas prependiculares numeradas pelo que não é difícil moverem-se por lá. Eu cheguei de carro com um mapa offline a a coisa fez-se. Há alguns parques de estacionamento no centro e os preços são aceitáveis. Depois disso fiz tudo a pé com uma pequena viagem de autocarro pelo meio, a cidade é grande e já estava cansada.
Recomendo que passem pelos dois pólos centrais da cidade, a zona em redor da Plaza Grande e o Paseo de Montejo.
Junto à praça, não deixem de passar pela Catedral de Mérida, no pequeno jardim do Parque Hidalgo (há wifi gratuito), atravessar a Pasaje de la Revolución e deambular pela zona comercial que vai até ao Mercado Lucas de Galvez.
O Paseo de Montejo tem um espírito completamente diferente do resto da cidade, avenida larga e arborizada, com os seus prédios de arquitetura europeia, um pequeno boulevard no México, já um pouco degradado em algumas zonas, mas onde podem encontram alguns cafés e restaurantes simpáticos e lojas com preços muito diferentes dos do centro da cidade. Sugiro uma paragem no Museu do Palácio Cantón (museu antropológico sobre a região do Yucatán) e uma caminhada até ao Monumento a la Patria.
Valladolid, a cidade das mil cores
Foi um caso de amor à primeira vista. Valladolid é mesmo bonita e encantadora com as suas casinhas em tons pastel por todo o centro histórico. É uma cidade pequena, onde é fácil caminhar e não tem imensos atrativos turísticos, percorrer as suas callezitas e absorver o espírito é mesmo o melhor da cidade. Comecem junto à Praça Principal onde fica o Parque Francisco Cantón Rosado e a Igreja de São Gervásio. Caminhem para sudoeste e percorram a charmosa Calzada de los Frailes e no regresso vão conhecer a Iglesia de la Candelaria e o pequeno jardim em frente, um dos recantos mais giros da cidade. Deixem-se ficar numa das esplanadas a absorver o ambiente e se tiverem sorte (e as obras já tiverem terminado) visitem o cenote Zaci, a poucas quadras do centro.
Chichén Itzá, Maravilha do Mundo
Tenho que confessar aqui que depois de visitar as Pirâmides do Egito, ou os templos de Angkor Wat no Cambodja, o fator wow à chegada a Chichen Itzá já não é assim tão intenso. O complexo é bastante interessante, a pirâmide principal – Castelo Kukulkan – é bastante imponente e há construções adjacentes bastante interessantes e com detalhes de escultura e relevo que valem a pena. Outra das atrações do local é o campo do famoso Juego de la Pelota que inspirou os filmes do Harry Potter e que segundo algumas das lendas da cultura maia era um presente envenenado. Consta que o capitão da equipa vencedora era sacrificado. Nós pelo menos atribuímos bolas de ouro aos melhores. O complpexo tem também um cenote (Cenote Sagrado) que não visitei, já que vários reviews sugeriam sair do local e conhecer outros cenotes na região, foi o que fiz. Sugiro que cheguem cedo porque as filas começam antes das portas abrirem e que tirem no mínimo duas horas para conhecer com calma e tirar dezenas de fotografias. As entradas custam cerca de 25 Euros por pessoa, é puxadito mas acho que não devem perder a oportunidade de conhecer uma das Maravilhas do Yucatán.
Izamal, a cidade amarela
Izamal foi uma das surpresas mais giras da viagem. Uma pequena cidade, não muito longe de Mérida que vale a pena o desvio. Com o seu centro histórico todo pintado de amarelo, tem um ar mesmo pitoresco e simpático. Vale a pena deambularem pelas ruas ruelas tons de sol e visitar o Convento de Santo António.
Sugiro que naveguem pelo Centro cultural e artesanal de Izamal mesmo no centro histórico e que se deixem ficar apenas a ver as charretes passar. Planeiem uma paragem de 1h/2h para absorverem um pouco do espírito da cidade.
Se tiverem com dias extra no México, será umlocal interessante para uma noite, a meio caminho entre Mérida e Valladolid.
Cenotes
Uma das maravilhas naturais do Yucatán. cenotes são cavernas naturais escavadas pela água no subsolo que que podem ter ou não abertura para o exterior. São muito comuns nesta região do yucatán e já eram usadas pelos povos maias. Hoje em dia é possível desfrutar de muitas delas, que têm cenários magníficos.
É obrigatório tomar banho antes de mergulhar nas águas dos cenotes e utilizar colete salva-vidas, a profundidade é imensa. Depois de ler muitos reviews acerca dos mais variados cenotes, acabei por escolher visitar dois deles. O Cenote Ik-Kil, famoso pelas suas trepadeiras suspensas, que criam a imagem que podem ver à esquerda e à direita nas fotografias. Este cenote fica a poucos minutos de carro de Chichén Itzá, pelo que é uma boa ideia conjugar os dois numa mesma visita. O Cenote Suytun, ao centro, fica a poucos quilómetros de Valladolid e tem uma cor incrível, é famoso pela sua plataforma onde a luz incide no seu máximo à hora de almoço e que rende as suas fotografias mais famosas. A entrada em cada um dos cenotes que visitei custou cerca de 6,5 Euros. Não deixem de escolher algum para visitar.
Dica de alojamento
Para explorar a região do Yucatán, decidi montar base na cidade de Valladolid, bem localizada mesmo no centro da península. Não me arrependi em nenhummomento da escolha, foi uma optima opção.
Acabei por escolher o Margarett Modern Hotel, a um quarteirão da praça principal, e recomendo esta opção.
Os quartos são simples mas confortáveis, amplos e com ar condicionado. O hotel possui poucos quartos pelo que o ambiente é bem calmo. Dispõe ainda de uma pequena piscina e um jardim tranquilo onde foi ótimo relaxar um pouco ao final do dia, no regresso à cidade.
Para além disso dispõe de parque de estacionamento gratuito e uma pequena zona de refeições, com chá/café disponvível 24h por dia e um frigorífico onde podem guardar alguma coisa. Durante a manhã há ainda pão e marmelada disponível para um pequeno-almoço simples. Funcionários muito prestáveis. Escolheria alojar-me lá novamente.
(+) Margarett Modern Hotel | Booking.com
O que comer?
Tortas, tacos e fajitas, em quantidades.
A comida mexicana foi sempre ótima, não houve desilusões em todo o tempo que estive por lá. Muito baseada à base de pão com os mais diferentes recheios, também é possível encontrar um pouco de arroz e frijoles (feijoões) de acompanhamento. Os tacos são aquelas sanduíches naqueles pão de milho em forma de tortilha – fininho e que enrola – e as tortas são as sanduíches em pão mais comum. Há vários tipos de carne com que rechear ambos (carne Pastor, um enchido bem fixe!), misturado com legumes, pico de gallo (salada de tomate, cebola, azeite e lima) e acompanhado por guacamole. Há abacate em todo o lado no México. Não esquecer as fajitas, pedacinhos de carne salteada com pimentos, made in mexico mas espalhada pelo mundo.
Pequeno almoços cheios de Tostas de Aguacate, Chiquillaques (isto é violento logo pela manhã) e Huevos das mais variadas formas.
De beber? Atacar uma Cerveja Corona sempre que possível.
Dica Extra
Gostei muito de conhecer a pequena cidade de Espita, ao norte de Valladolid, não acho que seja um must have, a incluis em qualquer roteiro, segui algumas dicas e passei por lá porque o tempo o permitia. Resume-se ao pequeno centro, com a sua praça, mercado e igreja. Mas os seus edifícios em tons coloridos berrantes dão-lhe um ar diferente e o ambiente de mercado/feira foi interessante. De todos os pueblos menos conhecidos onde parei pelo caminho, foi o mais interessante. Pequena maravilha escondida no centro do Yucatán.
Outros posts sobre o México
(+) Roteiro de 1 semana no México
(+) O que ver e fazer em Holbox
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