Campos de Lavanda | Roteiro na Provence
No fim da Primavera, início do Verão, os campos de lavanda na Provence florescem em tons de lilás, atraindo o imaginário de muitos viajantes e amantes da Natureza. Rende as fotografias mais giras e é uma experiência de sentidos irrepetível, ainda hoje fecho o olhos e consigo sentir o cheiro a alfazema – e o zumbido das abelhas em redor também. Num fim-de-semana de Julho pré-pandemia, juntei-me a alguns amigos e fizemos uma roadtrip na região. Fica aqui o nosso roteiro para tirarem o máximo partido dos campos de lavanda, e não só.
Como chegar e como se locomover?
Nós voamos até Marselha, a melhor opção a partir do Porto, com voos mais baratos e frequentes. Mas Os aeroportos de Nice ou Montpellier podem ser boas opções também, ou mesmo de Lyon, um pouco mais a norte. A partir de Portugal é também possível e interessante, caso tenham tempo, fazer a viagem de carro. Há muito o que visitar pelo caminho também. Posso deixar algumas dicas.
Se viajarem de carro vão tê-lo convosco, caso cheguem de avião, como nós, parece-me imprescindível alugar um carro. Os transportes públicos poderiam permitir visitar as cidades mais importantes da região facilmente, e até algumas vilas mais pequenas, mas nunca teriam a liberdade de percorrer os campos de lavanda da mesma forma sem carro. É fundamental.
(+) Reserva de automóveis | DiscoverCars
O que visitar? O roteiro.
As opções são as mais variadas, há muito o que ver e fazer na região e que podem juntar aos campos de lavanda, a principal razão para a nossa viagem. Eu fiz o roteiro apresentado abaixo num fim-de-semana, viajei para Marselha numa sexta a tarde e regressei no domingo ao final do dia. Foi um sim-de-semana non-stop, mas é desses que eu gosto. No primeiro dia ainda houve tempo para ir até Aix-en-Provence. No sábado foi a vez de rumar a leste e conhecer os campos de lavanda de Valensole e a zona das gargantas de Verdon durante a manhã e à tarde conduzir na direção contrária e conhecer Roussillon e Gordes. O Último dia começou em Avinhão e teve houve ainda oportunidade para visitar Le Baux de Provence e Arles, antes de voltar à base para voar para casa.
Aix-En-Provence
Cidadezinha simpática, Aix-em-Provence foi a base para o primeiro dia, chegamos já ao final da tarde e ficamos para jantar. Centro histórico com edifícios antigos, com aquele ar francaise típico, muita gente nas ruas, barzinhos e restaurantes animados. Foi só um ponto estratégico de paragem, mas gostei.
Campos de Lavandas | Valensole
O ponto alto da viagem. É impressionante a visão lilás dos campos de lavanda, em alguns locais as cores são mesmo aquilo que vemos nas fotografias, noutras nem por isso, mas se forem conduzindo um pouco ao sabor do vento pelas estradas nacionais na região de Valensole, vão encontrar os melhores campos para fotografar. É só parar na beira da estrada e aproveitar a paisagem. Para além da visão, o cheiro é impactante, nunca imaginei que se sentisse naquela intensidade. Para além do lilás, vão encontrar também o amarelo presente, seja nos campos de girassóis lado a lado com as lavandas, ou nas centenas de abelhas que circulam na zona – temi pela minha vida no primeiro impacto, tenho medo, mas respirei fundo e consegui abstrair-me e desfrutar da paisagem.
Moustiers Sainte-Marie e Gargantas do Verdon
Um pouco mais para leste, e já na minha lista há muito tempo, está a impressionante imagem das Gargantas de Verdon, um canyon de água azul turquesa que termina na enorme Lagoa de Santa Cruz. Podem crer que as imagens abaixo não têm nenhum filtro. Para além de ir a banhos e poderem praticar alguns desportos de água (há gaaivotas, caiaquetes, barquinhos para alugar) sugiro que parem na pequena e pitoresca aldeia de Moustiers Sainte-Marie.
Roussillon
Nunca tinha ouvido falar da paisagem ocre de Roussillon até ter começado a pesquisar sobre a região e a preparar a viagem, Les Sentiers des Ocres é o nome do parque natural que podem visitar e que vale bem o passeio. Gostei muito, é uma paisagem de tons completamente fora daquilo a que estamos habituados. Podem ver mais detalhes sobre horários e entradas aqui.
Para manter o espírito do local, a pequena vila do Roussillon segue os tons da região também na sua arquitectura. Tem um centrinho muito agradável onde podem parar para relaxar um pouco antes de seguir ciagem.
Gordes e Abadia de Sénanque
A pequena cidade histórica de Gordes, merece uma visita tranquila num roteiro pela Provence. Destaca-se o seu castelo da época renascentista e as suas ruas e vielas empedradas que preenchem toda a encosta que desce do castelo e que proporciona uma vista bem bonita a quem se aproxima pela estrada.
Estivemos por lá no final do segundo dia e a luz do pôr-do-sol sobre a cidade ficou marcada na retina.
Nas imediações, já no vale, fica a famosa Abadia de Sénanque, famosa pelos campos de lavanda que a circundam, imagem clássica da região.
Avignon
A cidade, famosa por ter sido sede do papado durante o século XIV, tem um centro histórico medieval muito interessante e com bastantes pontos de interesse entre os quais se destaca, claro, o Palácio dos Papas – que tive a oportunidade de visitar pelo interior e que recomendo muito – e a Ponte d’Avinhão, que foi originalmente construída no séc. XII e apenas quatro dos seus arcos chegaram até nós. Ambos património mundial UNESCO.
Não deixem de caminhar um pouco pelo centro e atravessar o rio até à Ilha Piot, no centro do Rio Ródano e caminhar ao longo da sua margem, um passeio em zona verde com as melhores visras para a cidade.
Van Gogh no Sul de França, Le Baux de Provence e Arles
O pintor Vincent Van Gogh viveu durante cerca de um ano no Sul de França e várias são ainda as alusões à sua presença na região. Por toda a cidade de Arles, onde passou uma das suas temporadas mais criativas há alusões às obras do pintor, como o Café du Forum onde a inspiração para o quadro Le café de la nuit é bastante clara.
Recentemente surgiu em Les Baux de Provence uma instalação/exposição de luz, Carrières des Lumière, com exibição de todas as obras mais famosas de Van Gogh. O conceito já foi um pouco espalhado por todo o mundo em exposições itinerantes, mas o local aqui (uma antiga pedreira) dá-lhe algum encanto. Vejam os detalhes aqui, é uma experiência interessante.
O que comer?
Bem, estamos em França, comer numa pode ser um problema, quando muito apenas para a carteira. Mas até nisso não tivemos grandes problemas, para quem está habituados aos preços de Paris, a Provence está muito mais ao alcance de qualquer bolso. Comemos bem e sem dar cabo do orçamento. Não podiam faltar alguns dos clássicos: fromage, moules frites, sopa de cebola e já que estavamos nos campos de lavanda, até gelado de lavanda houve para provar.
Outros roteiros em França:
(+) Roteiro de Natal na Alsácia
(+) Região de Bordéus | Da Baía de Arcachon ao Vale da Dordonha
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