Zona Arqueológica de Tulum | Reserva Natural de Sian Ka’an
Tulum entrou e saiu dos meus planos no México algumas vezes. Queria conhecer a Zona Arqueológica de Tulum e a Reserva Natural de Sian Ka’an lá perto mas não me apetecia passar muito tempo naquela região, já altamente povoada de resorts e turistas em massa e bastante mais descaracterizada com que aquilo que eu procurava. Assim acabei por fazer um passeio de apenas um dia, bate-volta, a partir da minha base em Valladolid. Foi uma boa solução de compromisso. Fica aqui o relato do meu dia.
Zona Arqueológica de Tulum
Acordei bem cedo em Valladolid, já que ainda tinha cerca de duas horas de caminho pela frente e queria estar na região costeira perto do horário de abertura da Zona Arqueológica de Tulum. Acabei por chegar um pouco depois, entre procura por estacionamento e a caminhada necessária até à bilheteira, Já estava uma fila considerável, mas que fluiu em cerca de 15/20 minutos. Mesmo não parecendo pelas fotografias (eu sou paciente e espero sempre o melhor momento para fazer o clique) o parque estava já com muitos turistas e concentração de pessoas junto aos monumentos mais conhecidos. Apesar do calor que se fazia sentir e da poucas sombras disponíveis, foi muito agradável explorar um pouco deste conjunto arqueológico de ruínas maias com posição mais que privilegiada junto ao Mar das Caraíbas.
A cidade muralhada foi um dos principais portos maias na região e teve o seu apogeu entre os séculos XIII e XV. Há vários edifícios ainda bem conservados mas nenhum pode ser visitado pelo seu interior. Os mais conhecidos são O Castelo e o Templo do Deus do Vento, pela sua posição geográfica, em duas colinas mesmo junto ao mar. Contém com no mínimo umas duas horas para visitar todo o complexo.
As imediações da zona arqueológica de tulum, bem como toda a cidade, foram completamente tomadas pelo turismo e encontram-se bastante descaracterizadas. Há cafés/restaurantes a preços bem mais puxados do que no resto do país. centenas de lojas de souvenirs com produtos Made in China e muito pouco de artesanato local, e olhando em redor conseguem ver apenas turistas estrangeiros e poucos locais. À saída parei apenas num barzinho para uma bebida fresca e percebi que tinha tomado a decisão certa em não ficar muito tempo por aqui. Há outro México para conhecer.
Reserva Natural de Sian Ka’an
Pouco depois rumei um pouco até sul, cerca de 25 quilómetros até uma das entradas para a Reserva natural de Sian Ka’an. É possível visita-la a partir do lado do mar, na península que dá acesso a punta Allen, mas este é um passeio bem mais demorado para quem está em Tulum, ao que parece as estradas são péssimas. Decidi assim visitar a partir das ruínas de Muyil, já dentro da Reserva Natural. O preço deste tour, que dura pouco mais de duas horas e que não conseguem fazer de forma independente é bastente puxado (1000 pesos, pouco mais de 40 Euros) mas vale muito a pena. É só chegar à entrada do parque e esperar pela saída seguinte. Vão poder atravessar a zona arqueológica de Muyil, caminhar um pouco pelos trilhos da floresta densa da Reserva Natural e fazer um passeio de barco pelas Lagoas azul turquesa de água doce da reserva natural, e cruzar alguns dos canais artificiais – construídos pela população maia – que unem as lagoas. Um destes canais é cruzado não de barco, mas a flutuar, e esta foi uma das melhores experiências da viagem! Pouco mais de 1 quilómetro de águas calmas, que se faz ao sabor da corrente em cerca de meia hora. Uma paz, uma tranquilidade, apenas com o som da natureza. Não percam esta oportunidade. Não precisam sequer saber nadar, até uma criança pode fazer o trajeto, é sugerido que vistam o colete pelas pernas, e ficam como que sentados a flutuar, a corrente faz o resto. As águas são perfeitamente calmas e o canal não é muito profundo, têm pé em grande parte do caminho. Façam-no!
Estavamos já a meio da tarde quando terminei a visita e era tempo de começar a pensar em regressar a Valladolid, ainda tinha duas horas de caminho pela frente. Parei apenas nas imediações para uns tacos com arroz e frijoles que a fome já apertava e segui viagem. Valeu mesmo a pena este dia junto à costa, entre a Zona Arqueológica de Tulum e a Reserva Natural de Sian Ka’an. Apesar do tempo e da distância não foi demasiado cansativo, a estrada é boa e a experiência imperdível.
Outras publicações sobre o México:
(+) Roteiro de 1 semana no México
(+) O que ver e fazer em Holbox
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