Roteiro na Andaluzia
Uma semana de férias inesperadas em Julho de 2021. Uma pandemia que aos poucos ia acalmando, foi a desculpa ideal para a primeira viagem internacional depois de sucessivos lockdowns nos meses anteriores. Literalmente de um dia para o outro decidi meter-me no carro e rumar ao Sul de Espanha para uns dias de calor enquanto revia algumas das cidades que já havia visitado em tempos e conhecia alguns pueblos novos. Fica aqui o meu roteiro na Andaluzia.
Dia 1 – Longa jornada até Córdoba
Domingo, hora de almoço e meti-me no carro para conduzir até Córboda. Não foi a ideia mais sensata de sempre fazer esta esticada toda de uma só vez. Mas foi o melhor que consegui para otimizar a minha semana (não repitam esta brincadeira). Oito horas na estrada com uma pequena paragem numa fronteira perdida algures no Alto Alentejo apenas para tirar a foto da praxe e registar a primeira viagem “internacional” no pós-covid.
Cheguei a Córdoba debaixo de um calor abrasador já ao pôr-do-sol, apenas a tempo de pousar a mala no alojamento e sair para umas cañas que acompanharam a final do europeu de futebol, que animavam as ruas e que a Itália ganhou.
Dia 2 – Córboda/Granada
Acordar cedo no verão andaluz é a melhor aposta para fugir às temperaturas escaldantes, e foi isso mesmo que fiz. À primeira hora estava sentada em frente a uma tostada com azeite e tomate antes de começar a explorar um pouco do centro histórico da cidade. Se consultarem detalhes acerca do horário de visitas do ex-libris da cidade – a Catedral/Mesquita – vão ver que o horário de abertura é as 10h e os bilhetes custam 11 Euros. Posso dizer-vos que há brinde para madrugador e em redor das 09h da manhã podem entrar gratuitamente, eu cheguei antes das nove e consegui estar lá dentro até às 09h20. Tentem a vossa sorte também.
Para além disso, explorem o Bairro Judeu, as ruelas em redor da catedral, visitem as muralhas e algumas das Portas da Cidade e atravessem a Ponte Romana sobre o rio Guadalquivir.
Junto ao rio vão encontrar também o Alcázar dos Reis Católicos, vale a pena conhecê-lo por dentro. Não tive a sorte de o encontrar aberto (restrições covid, pelo que percebi).
Aproximava-se a hora de almoço e o pico de calor do dia, momento ideal para deixar a cidade e aproveitar o ar condicionado do carro para seguir com o meu roteiro na andaluzia e fazer a viagem até Granada, onde cheguei depois de almoço.
Aproveitei para me instalar nas calmas, num hotel simpático (antiguinho mas confortável) mesmo junto à entrada do Alhambra, comer um bocadillo e ler um pouco na borda da piscina. Tinha marcado bilhete para visitar o Alhambra ao fim da tarde.
Visitar o Complexo do Alhambra é um must-have na região. A fama não é em vão e não por acaso os reis católicos se bateram durante tantos anos para conquistar a cidade e apoderar-se do palácio árabe que fervilhava no seu imaginário há anos. E não se desiludiram quando lá entraram pela primeira vez, tal como acontece mais de 500 anos depois com os visitantes que por lá passam. Eu não fui excepção.
recomendo que tirem umas 3h (mínimo) para andar por lá.
Para otimizarem o vosso tempo por lá, cheguem com antecedência. O horário marcado é para visita aos Palácios Nazaries, mas devem começar pelo Generalife que fica bem mais próximo da entrada, para que nao tenham de voltar para trás. As outras atrações são todas próximas ao palácio pelo que depois podem gerir como for mais conveniente.
Deixem-se deambular por lá, explorem os jardins e os detalhes arquitetónicos do complexo. Tirem milhares de fotografias, não dá para ser de outra maneira. No final saiam pela Porta da Justiça e em poucos passos estão no centro da cidade.
Foi o que eu fiz e ainda consegui aproveitar a luz do dia para explorar um pouco o casco histórico em redor da Catedral de Granada, subir até ao bairro árabe de Albaícin (Placeta de Carvajales, o spot perfeito para ver o Alhambra à luz dourada do fim do dia) e aproveitar o cair da noite para descer a movimentada Calle de las Teterías, em pleno souk árabe para um jantar tradicional.
(+) Hotel Alixares | Booking.com
Dia 3 – Granada/Setenil de las Bodegas/Ronda
Antes de voltar à estrada e ao meu roteiro na andaluzia, fui de manhã bem cedo até ao Miradouro de San Nicolás, um dos mais conhecidos da cidade, e de lá caminhei até Sacromonte para explorar um pouco a zona das Cuevas, há várias casas tradicionais e museus de Tablao Flamenco mas aquela hora da manhã o movimento era pouco. Já tinha assistido a um espetaculo há muitos anos atrás, mas se quiserem fazê-lo é ao fim d atarde/noite que devem vir até cá. Depois de provar um Salmorejo de brunch, saí da cidade em direção aos Pueblos Blancos.
A primeira paragem foi em Setenil de las Bodegas. O pequeno pueblo é conhecido pelos suas ruas com “tectos” de pedra. Ou seja, casas cravadas na rocha. O cenário é fora do comum e impressionante. As pequenas ruelas estão agora cravejadas de cafés, restaurantes e pequenas ruelas onde podem desfrutar das vistas nas margens do Rio Trejo. Percorram as Cuevas del Sol e as Cuevas de la Sombra e subam ao pequeno Miradouro del Carmén para uma panorâmica sobre a cidade.
A poucos quilómetros fica a a cidade de Ronda, a paragem seguinte no meu roteiro. Antes de explorar a cidade, e já que o calor de fim de almoço apertava, fui até ao hotel pousar a mala e relaxar um pouco na borda da piscina (uma comodidade importante num roteiro andaluz em pleno verão). Com as temperaturas a dar tréguas, passei algumas horas no fim do dia a explorar a cidade. Estacionem perto da Praça de Touros e caminhem em direção à ponte, passando pelos Miradouros do Paseo de los Ingleses e de la Sevillana. Mesmo à entrada da ponte, fica a Plaza de España, com várias opções de esplanadas onde beber umas cañas. Cruzando a ponte fica o Casco Viejo, caminhem pelas ruelas até à Iglesia de Santa Maria la Mayor e visitem a Casa Juan Bosco. Desta zona da cidade descem vários trilhos até ao vale onde se encontram os melhores miradouros para a Puente Nuova que se impõe sobre o imponente canión do rio. Se não quiserem descer tudo a pé (para não ter de voltar a subir) vão até ao Mirador La Hoya del Tajo, mas cuidado com o veículo que levam até lá, o caminho é péssimo, em terra batida, algum cascalho e muita inclinação. O meu Micra não teve a vida fácil para sair dali, e a Inês mais maçarica de há uns anos tinha ficado lá em baixo para sempre. Mas a vista vale a pena!
(+) Hotel Ronda Moments | Booking.com
Dia 4 – Sevilha
A última paragem do meu roteiro na Andaluzia foi a cidade de Sevilha, para onde fui de manhã cedo neste dia. Sevilha é uma das maiores cidades de Espanha, e aqui não faz sentido andarem muito de carro, pelo que a primeria paragem foi no hotel onde irira pernoitar, para estacionar, deixar a mala e estava na rua ainda de manhã pronta para explorar. Comecei o dia na Praça de Espanha, para onde fui de autocarro.
Esqueçam tudo que imaginam de praças espanholas, sejam as quadradonas Plazas Mayores espalhadas pelo país, os as mais monumentais Plazas de España de Madrid ou Barcelona. Esta é uma obra de arte impressionante, e vale por si só a deslocação à cidade. Inserida no Parque Maria Luísa, a sua construção monumental e colorida, a ligação ao verde e à água é mesmo fora do comum e giríssimo – preparem as máquinas fotográficas.
Depois de umas horas por aqui, voltei a pé até ao hotel, explorando um pouco melhor pelo caminho a zona da Universidade, do Alcazar Real, e da Giralda (Catedral de Sevilha). Pelo caminho ainda houve tempo para umas tapas e umas cañas fresquinhas, antes de recolher e passar as horas de mais calor à sombra, na piscina do hotel (uma ótima sugestão perto do centro).
Ao fim da tarde, depois de algum descanso e quando a temperatura começava (lentamente) a dar uma trégua, voltei a sair para fazer a visita às Setas de Sevilha ao fim da tarde. É uma das atrações mais recentes da cidade. Na realidade é “apenas” a cobertura de acesso a uma dsa interfaces de transporte no centro da cidade, mas a verdade é que é uma obra de arte. Com plataformas elevadas nos céus e com vistas para a cidade. Gostei imenso de passear por aqui, um ponto de observação fora da caixa que aconselho conhecerem.
Depois desta visita, continuei o meu passeio pelas ruinhas do centro da cidade. Deambulei até ao rio, atravessei a Ponte Isabel II até ao bairro de Triana.
O local escolhido para um último jantar de tapas, antes de apanhar de novo o autocarro que me levou de volta à zona do hotel. Foi uma visita rápida à cidade que valeu muito a pena, mas é sem dúvida uma ótima opção de escapadinha de fim-de-semana.
(+) Hotel Catalonia Santa Justa | Booking.com
Dia 5 – De volta a casa pelo Sul de Portugal
Era o fim da minha viagem e do meu roteiro na Andaluzia, de manhã cedo fiz-me à estrada de regresso a Portugal. Desta vez optei por cruzar o Algarve, onde almocei junto à praia na zona de Portimão – mais precisamente na Ponta da Piedade – onde tinha vontade de ir há muito tempo mas a oportunidade ainda não tinha surgido. Daí segui para Lisboa. Os dois dias seguintes iam ser por lá, a relaxar e aproveitar a capital com amigos.
O meu Roteiro na Andaluzia
…
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