Gravuras do Vale do Côa | Experiência completa
Inserido no meu roteiro para completar o Passaporte Douro, desafio que aceitei em conjunto com a Raquel e o Tiago, do @365diasnomundo, no início do Verão estivemos em Vila Nova de Foz Côa para nos dedicarmos às gravuras rupestres. Foi um dia de imersão completa com visita às gravuras da Canada do Inferno, ao Museu do Côa e ainda testamos o restaurante do complexo, com uma maravilhosa vista para o vale e para o rio. Aqui fica o relato completo da minha experiência.
A barragem, a descoberta das gravuras e a questão política
Provavelmente os menos jovens (como eu, não se apoquentem) lembram-se de todo o sururu em volta da construção da barragem que levou à descoberta das gravuras de Foz Coa, formalmente anunciada em 1994, e a forma avassaladora como entrou na campanha eleitoral para as Legislativas em Portugal no ano de 1995. António Guterres (atual secretário-geral da ONU) ganhou a corrida nesse ano e acabou por se tornar a cara da decisão.
“Em 1996, o governo português, atendendo à opinião dos especialistas acerca da enorme importância artística e científica das gravuras do Côa, e ao grande número de sítios que se foram descobrindo desde 1991, decidiu abandonar a construção da barragem. Foi nesse momento que o Parque Arqueológico do Vale do Côa foi criado para proteger e mostrar ao público o importante complexo de arte rupestre aqui existente”
Parque Arqueológico do Vale do Côa
Neste momento este é o maior conjunto mundial de arte paleolítica ao ar livre . Os núcleos de gravuras do Vale do Côa conseguiram a sua classificação como Património Mundial, pela UNESCO, em 1998. Hoje em dia, para além do núcleo inicial da Canada do Inferno, é possível visitar gravuras também em Ribeira de Piscos e Penascosa. Uma pequena amostra aberta ao público, dos mais de 80 sítios com arte rupestre (aproximadamente 1200 rochas gravadas) abrangendo uma área territorial de cerca de 200 kms2 nos concelhos de Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, Pinhel e Mêda.
“Até à sua identificação em meados da última década do século XX, suponha-se que a mais antiga expressão artística da Humanidade estava circunscrita ao mundo subterrâneo das grutas. Coloca-se agora a hipótese de a arte de ar livre ter sido mais comum. Mas os diversos agentes erosivos e a própria atividade humana ao longo dos milénios, terão impedido que muita dela chegasse ao presente. Dai a importância do Vale do Côa, com os seus sítios arqueológicos bem preservados.”
O Museu
Projetado por uma equipa de arquitetos portuguesas, Tiago Pimentel e Camilo Rebelo, foi construído entre 2007 e 2010 e pretende enquadrar-se na paisagem adjacente, como uma afloração rochosa. O seu acabamento exterior tenta imitar as irregularidas do xisto (a rocha mais presente na região), e a sua localização, com vista para o encontro dos rios Côa e Douro, dá ênfase ao encontro dos dois patrimónios mundiais da região: a arte pré-histórica do Vale do Côa e a Paisagem Vinhateira do Vale do Douro.
Para além da mostra educativa acerca das gravuras da região, da sua descoberta e da história da época. O museu conta ainda com um centro de acolhimento para investigadores, uma biblioteca temática, uma loja de souvenirs e uma museu/café com as melhores vistas sobre os rios.
A nossa experiência
Combinamos com a Cristina encontrarmo-nos por volta das 9h da manhã na entrada do museu. Ela iria acompanhar-nos ao longo do dia e mostrar o que de mais famoso Foz Côa tem para oferecer.
Para aproveitar as primeiras horas da manhã e as temperaturas mais baixas, dirigimo-nos logo à chegada para a Canada do Inferno. O Côa Parque tem jipes e disponibiliza transporte até aos diferentes locais de visita. E foi assim que nós fomos também. Uma vez lá chegados, munimo-nos de chapéu, reforço extra de protetor solar e muita água e descemos até junto do leito do rio, para finalmente conhecer as gravuras e ouvir falar um pouco mais da história e pesquisa sobre a época paleolítica.
O calor é bastante duro no vale, e não apanhamos os piores dias do ano (chega aos 50 graus alguns dias). Mas a visita vale a pena, e com a ajuda de quem sabe conseguem bem perceber os diferentes traços e animais retratados ao longo do paleolítico naquelas rochas.
Depois desta visita no terreno, voltamos ao Museu, onde tivemos oportunidade de conhecer as exposições permanentes e ir um pouco mais fundo na descoberta das gravuras, ver de forma interativa vários painéis que não estão acessíveis ao público e conhecer um pouco das história e costumes dos povos que se pensam terem sido os responsáveis pelas execução das gravuras.
A última visita do dia. The last but not the least. O restaurante do Museu. Ambiente agradável, umas vistas maravilhosas sobre o Vale e a comida que vale a pena. A carne da região é imperdível e eu provei-a com cogumelos, também muito utilizados na cozinha regional. Estava tudo ótimo e recomendo que incluam este momento na vossa visita também.
Dicas Práticas
A visita aos locais das gravuras pode não ser para todos, especialmente no Verão, quando o calor aperta, tenham em conta as condições climatéricas e não se esqueçam de:
– Chapéu
– Protetor solar
– Água
– Roupa leve e fresca
– Calçado confortável
A caminhada é curta mas o terreno irregular e com desníveis. Independentemente da temperatura não é recomendado para pessoas com mobilidade e agilidade condicionada.
Marquem a vossa visita às gravuras do Vale do Côa com antecedência, sigam as orientações dadas pelo CôaParque e pelo vosso guia no local.
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