O que visitar no Sul do Cazaquistão
O Cazaquistão entrou na minha lista por uma questão de proximidade. Tenho de confessar que não era exatamente o local no mundo que mais me atraía no momento mas, é vizinho do Uzebequistão, e a oportunidade de começar os meus dias na Ásia Central por lá ganharam força com as opções favoráveis para voar para Almaty. Depois de alguma pesquisa, acabei por percorrer o sul do país de comboio e delinear o roteiro que descrevo abaixo. Espero que gostem, e ponderem incluir o Sul do Cazaquistão numa viagem maior pela Ásia Central.
1. Almaty, a antiga capital
Foi capital do país durante quase todo o século XX e apenas em 1997 perdeu o estatuto para Astana. É uma cidade simpática, florida, ampla e de arquitectura claramente soviética. Desde a sua independência, em 1991, a cidade tornou-se o ponto de referência em termos culturais e comerciais do novo país.
Largas avenidas, imensas zonas verdes e imponentes edifícios compõem o centro da cidade onde é agradável e tranquilo passear a pé para conhecer os principais pontos.
Num roteiro de um dia na cidade, recomendo que incluam uma visita à Catedral Zentov e ao Parque Panfilov, mesmo lá ao lado, onde podem visitar o imponente memorial da Segunda Guerra Mundial. Completem o dia passeando sem rumo pelo centro da cidade, mas não deixando de passar pelo Green Bazar e a rua comercial/pedonal Zhybek-Zholy.
Terminem o dia num restaurante de comida tradicional cazaque. Foi o que eu fiz e o menu estava excelente, mas atirem-se de cabeça ao hábito de beber chá com tudo e a todas as refeições. Este foi o meu primeiro dia na região e ainda caí no erro de pedir uma cerveja, veio quente e com uma palhinha – para terem noção da desgraça.
2. Região dos lagos, bate-volta a Issik
Perto de ALmaty, a meio dia de visita fica a região das montanhas e grandes lagos, uma das atrações da cidade. A cordilheira Tian Shan, que começa no Sul do Cazaquistão faz geologicamente parte dos Himalaias e esconde uma série de lagos que merecem a visita. O mais famoso é o Big Almaty Lake mas por sugestão do meu guia local acabei por escolher visitar o lago Issik. A cor da água, a paisagem envolvente é impressionante. Uma mistura de verde-azul que justifica a viagem.
Para conseguirem fazer um destes passeios têm de ter carro próprio ou contratar um tour a partir de Almaty, não será fácil acederem às montanhas de transportes públicos.
3. Viajar de comboio, a experiência
Que experiência magnífica. Uma das minhas viagens em bucket list será sempre percorrer todo o percurso do transsiberiano. É uma viagem sem planos de execução mas a ideia estará sempre lá. Esta viagem de cerca de 17h horas, de estilo soviético, foi um cheirinho ótimo do que poderá ser a experiência. O meu bilhete de comboio indicava a hora de almoço para a partida de Almaty e a madrugada do dia seguinte para a chegada ao Turkistan, foi munida de alguns livros e muita comida que procurei o meu lugar num dos vagões-cama do comboio. Saiu-me na rifa uma simpática familia cazaque que não falava inglês mas que me adotou de imediato. Partilhamos refeições, saímos juntos para esticar as pernas, depois de me tentarem explicar como funcionavam os tempos de paragem em cada localidade com recurso a um horário afixado no comboio. E despedimo-nos ainda de noite quando cheguei a Turkistan por volta das 5h da manhã, eles ainda seguiriam viagem, não percebi até onde.
4. Turkistão, o Cazaquistão profundo
Completamente inspirada pela viagem do Filipe do Alma de Viajante, não podia deixar de incluir a pequena cidade de Turkistan na minha lista de objetivos no Sul do Cazaquistão. O Mausoléu de Khoja Ahmed Yasawi é verdadeiramente impressionante, e passei horas a deambular por lá e a tirar fotografias às diferentes horas do dia e incidências de luz do sol.
O principal destaque do edifício, datado do séc. XIV e mandado construir pelo imperador mongol Tamerlão, são as suas cúpulas azul turquesa e o trabalhado de azulejos em tons creme e azul que compõem todas as paredes exteriores do edifício. O mausoléu fica isolado na periferia da pequena cidade num descampado que atrai todos os visitantes da região. A pequena cidade de Turkistan, para além disto tem meia dúzia de ruas comerciais em terra batida por onde deambulei durante a tarde e onde fiz algumas amigas (e pintei as unhas na esteticista/cabeleireira que veem na foto abaixo). O Cazaquistão profundo, uma experiência única.
(+) Roteiro de 10 dias na Ásia Central
(+) O que ver e fazer em Tashkent
…
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