Rota da Seda no Uzbequistão
Visitei o Uzbequistão em outubro de 2019 e de lá para cá não me canso de recomendar esta viagem a toda a gente com quem me cruzo, sempre que a oportunidade surge, os meus elogios ao país são infinitos. Espero que mais do que as minhas palavras, que são sempre recebidas com algum ceticismo por toda a gente, as fotografias falem por si e se deixem encantar pelas cidades da Rota de Seda no Uzbequistão. Khiva, Bucara e Samarkanda vão ficar-vos na retina.
Khiva
Das três cidades da Rota da Seda que visitei, Khiva foi a mais pequena e tradicional. O seu centro histórico no interior muralhado da cidade é pedonal e dominado pelos tons terra das construções de adobe. Uma cidade no meio do deserto com foco nas cúpulas azuis que marcam a sua silhueta.
É perfeitamente viável conhecer a cidade num dia. Tudo é walking distance e o interessante da visita é “perderem-se” pelas ruelas e ir explorando ao ritmo que encontrarem. Há pequenas madrassas e mausoleos em que podem entrar, normalmente são espaços pequenos, de rápida visita mas que valem a pena pela decoração riquíssima do seu interior, vão entrando e saindo das diferentes atrações, parem numa esplanada para ver a vida passar, demorem-se nas bancas do bazar a escolher algum dos produtos tradicionais para trazer para casa. Sejam umas pantufas de lã ou ervas para uma infusão.
A imagem mais marcante na cidade é o seu minarete inacabado. Pela dimensão da base podemos imaginar a obra que estaria projetada, infelizmente o seu topo não chegou a ver a luz do dia.








Bucara
A segunda cidade que visitei foi Bucara, já com cara de cidade grande ainda assim sem perder o encanto do seu centro histórico quase todo pedonal, com imensas madrassas, mesquitas e mausoléus ainda maiores e mais imponentes. Se tivesse de escolher uma cidade apenas provavelmente seria Bucara, porque ali a imponencia arquitetónica que voltaremos a encontrar em Samarcanda mas sem perder o espírito de cidade pequena mais característico de Khiva.
Uma das zonas mais imponentes da cidade é a praça composta pela Madrassa Mir-i-Arab, pelo minarete de Kalyan e pela Mesquita de Kalan. Na quarta lateral desta praça, do outro lado da estrada há um café no segundo piso que apesar de ter o chá mais caro que bebi na viagem (ainda assim aceitável para padrão europeu) tem a melhor das vistas. Façam como eu e subam até lá ao fim do dia, vão ver a praça de dia e ao anoitecer a ser iluminada. No centro da cidade não percam também a muralha da cidade, a sua construção arredondada é majestosa. De resto, deixem-se levar e aproveitem a vida da cidade.
Nos arredores da cidade visitem o Palácio Sitorai Mohi Xosa, ao contrário da grande maioria das atrações na cidade, este palácio é do início do século XX e foi mandado construir pelo último Emir da cidade, um estilo diferente mas ainda assim com muitas influências tradicionais.






Samarkanda
Esta é provavelmente a cidade que nos vem a todos à mente quando pensamos na Rota da Seda no Uzbequistão. Um dos grandes culpados será certamente o livro homónimo de Amin Maalouf. No entanto, talvez porque as expectativas eram elevadíssimas, e porque tinha acabado de chegar de Samarcanda e Bucara, senti uma pontada de desilusão ao conhecer a cidade. Não porque não tenha inúmeras atrações que justifiquem a fama adquirida mas pelo tipo de cidade. Samarcanda é uma cidade-cidade dos dias de hoje, com centenas de milhares de pessoas, vias rápidas a cortar o centro da cidade, trânsito infernal em alguns momentos do dia. A magia da Rota da Seda não está em toda a parte e para visitar todos os pontos de atração não basta uma pequena caminhada, vão precisar de transportes. Ainda assim, sem dúvida que os complexos históricos são IM-PRE-SSI-O-NAN-TES.
A começar com o ex-libris da cidade e do país, a Praça do Rajastão e as suas três Madrassas: Ulugh Beg, Tilya-Kori e Sher-Dor. Este é o centro da cidade e a partir daqui podem caminhar tranquilamente até ao segundo ponto mais interessante da cidade (na minha opinião claro está), a Necrópole de Shah-i-Zinda. Não é mais do que um cemitério que em vez de campas rasas tem mausoléus monumentais, mas a sua decoração é impressionantes, as cúpulas azuis mais bonitas da viagem, as paredes de azulejo mais trabalhadas. Passei horas por aqui. Entre os dois vão passar pela Mesquita Bibi-Khanym que vale a pena visitar. Incluam ainda na visita à cidade uma passagem pelo Mausoléu Gur-i-Amir.







Dicas Práticas
Como se locomover?
Eu usei duas formas distintas para me locomover no país que se complementaram bem. Como expliquei no roteiro já publicado, parti e cheguei a Tashkent, a capital do país. No início da viagem apanhei um comboio noturno entre Tashkent e uma cidade próxima de Khiva, onde um transfer me esperava. A experiência foi ótima, os compartimentos eram de quatro pessoas, consegui descansar e ainda fiz “amigos” na carruagem ao lado que me convidaram para jantar. Entre khiva-bucara-samarcanda as viagens foram feitas de transfer por estrada, deu para atravessar um pouco do deserto do país, atravessar os campos de algodão e ainda conhecer uma cisterna para abastecimento de caravanas de camelos. Por fim, no regresso de Samarcanda a Tashkent apanhei um comboio rápido e em 2h estava de regresso à capital.
O que comer?
Começar com o que beber: chá! Chá a todas as horas do dia e refeições. No primeiro dia caí no erro de pedir uma cerveja, foi tentativa única. No geral é comida é muito boa, uma mistura entre a comida mediterrânea com influências asiáticas nos alimentos (noodles há bastante por exemplo) mas sem perder aquele sabor a que estamos habituados. Saladas, legumes, muito arroz. Um dos pratos tradicionais é o Plov, um arroz com vegetais cozinhado numa panela gigante que tanbém pode ser acompanhado com carne variada. Provem também as espetadas de origem russa, Shashlik.








(+) O que visitar no Sul do Cazaquistão
(+) Sete coisas para ver e fazer em Tashkent
. . .
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